Can you please help a large newb???????

[berbes]

Hello-

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

What models of bikes or types of frames or pieces should i be looking for to put a hefty bike together? What about the older 80's bikes? Are those schwinns good enough to hold my weight? It seems I always end up bending the pedals, so if that helps....

 

[oldbobcat]

Hello-

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

Sounds like what you need is a "transitional bike," like when I bought a couple pair of cheap "transitional shorts" from Performance a couple of years ago.

A used 80s bike would be perfect for this purpose. I'd recommend aluminum- or steel-framed sport bikes, not too racy, for this purpose. Accommodations to consider for your weight are sturdy wheels (36-spokes, with 25 or 28mm tires), a sturdy saddle (slightly wider and longer, with steel rails), and lower gears, at least until you get your weight down a bit. If the bike doesn't come with these, a local shop can fix you up.

Fit is important--at 6', your size will most likely fall into the 56-60cm range, depending on your proportions and the proportions of the bike. For most guys your size 58 is a good compromise.

Great bikes of all brands can be found. I'm especially fond of old Univegas, but consider Trek, Specialized, Fuji, Panasonic, Centurion, Bridgestone, Bianchi, Cannondale, etc.

Whatever you buy, having it checked out and fixed up by your local shop or friendly mechanic can save you money and grief later. Good luck.

 

[daveornee]

Hello-

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

What models of bikes or types of frames or pieces should i be looking for to put a hefty bike together? What about the older 80's bikes? Are those schwinns good enough to hold my weight? It seems I always end up bending the pedals, so if that helps....

Trek 520, Surly Long Haul Trucker, Bianci Volpe.
Check some of your local bicycle shops to see if they will work with you.
All the above are "Touring" bicycles built with loaded distance as part of thier mindset.
If you can find a local dealer that stocks at least one of these in stock it is a good idea to be fitted so that you can get your weight and fitness going in the right direction without spending lots of money on additional upgrades/repairs/replacements.
Get a saddle that fits your sit bones. Get the stem height and reach suitable for your size. Get the shape and width of handlebars that are suitable for your body.

 

[threaded]

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

You're not going to get much of a choice. The word you need to google is "Clydesdale" (or "Athena" for any big girls reading this).

Many bike parts are for a max weight of ~85kg ~190lbs. I'm not as large as you, but I go through parts at quite a rate, with most parts suffering fatigue failures (latest examples are on my blog). So be prepared to pay out for parts and being without the bike for several days at a time. (Unless you do like most and build up a bike collection, large enough to see you through such down times, remember the spare-bike is probably waiting on parts too ;-) )

Learn how to do you're own maintenance, it'll save quite a bit of time, and paying out to the LBS.

When you've built up a suitably large tool collection, know what you like, and how you ride, build your own bike. It's the only way to achieve decent reliability.

 

[gclark8]

Caution, all bikes have a max gross weight! (Bike+Rider+Load)
85-125kg depending on the bike.

You will need a custom steel frame and specially built wheels probably using tandem hubs.

Take forum advice cautiously, go to a steel frame maker.

 

[alfeng]

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

What models of bikes or types of frames or pieces should i be looking for to put a hefty bike together? What about the older 80's bikes? Are those schwinns good enough to hold my weight? It seems I always end up bending the pedals, so if that helps....

FWIW. Less expensive frames are generally more robust than more expensive frames ... a steel hardtail MTB frame will generally be more robust than a steel road frame -- I have an OLDer steel GIANT hardtail that is dimensionally the same (BIG tubes!) as an alloy MTB frame, consequently, the frame is over-built & probably capable of handling someone who is much heavier than you currently are!

DOWNHILL components are generally beefier than regular components ... so, think about a set of Downhill pedals regardless of the rest of the components OR bike you end up with.

Also, your saddle may have been too low (or, high!) which subsequently allows you to put more "weight" on the pedals.

You may find that you'll eventually want a rear wheel with a SOLID rear axle which has 36-or-more spokes ... as suggested, a 40h tandem hub might be something to consider if you find the reliability of a 36h wheel to be problematic.

You may want to consider 700x38-or-larger tires (which will fit in some 80s vintage bike frames & definitely fit in most 70s vintage frames), so a "hybrid" is something to consider ... OR, you can consider some airless tires (http://www.airfreetires.com/shopping/c-1-bicycle.aspx?pagenum=6).

A 29er can probably be classified as is a "hybrid" that has grown-up ...

If you are looking for a "new" bike, I think something like a RALEIGH XXIX (I'm going to have to buy one, one of these days!) is something you should look at as a benchmark against which you can compare other bikes. The XXIX has a CroMo frame & 700x58 tires are standard -- 700x58 tires won't fit in frames designed for other 700c wheels BUT may fit in some MTB frames which are designed for 26" tires if the bike uses disc brakes. Of course, you can mount smaller tires in a 29er, so while a 29er may look strange with 700x28-or-smaller tires, I think it's better to have the option available at all extremes if you're only going to have one bike (initially).

 

[berbes]

wow, what great replies...thanks so much, folks!

 

[garage sale GT]

I don't like the old bike idea. I can't find one that fits me well if it's a road bike because they typically made them taller but not necessarily longer back in the day. This counts mainly for drop bar road bikes. They are much less forgiving when it comes to top tube length than a bike with a flat or raised bar.

The second flaw with the idea is that 1980s low-end to mid-range bikes will typically have a freewheel style rear hub, which is definitely a weak link. I break them and I have 100lbs less than you on the bike. However, if you find a road frame which fits, you can consider buying a new rear road wheel like I did, which had a modern cassette hub.

Most of a 1970s Schwinn will be bomb-proof except for the 10mm, standard rear derailleur axle, but Schwinn started sourcing frames abroad in the '80s and they're no different from other bikes.

If you go new, why not just contact the manufacturer? Why should their opinion of what works be less trustworthy than some small custom maker who is not worth suing?

 

[alfeng]

I don't like the old bike idea. I can't find one that fits me well if it's a road bike because they typically made them taller but not necessarily longer back in the day. This counts mainly for drop bar road bikes. They are much less forgiving when it comes to top tube length than a bike with a flat or raised bar.

The second flaw with the idea is that 1980s low-end to mid-range bikes will typically have a freewheel style rear hub, which is definitely a weak link. I break them and I have 100lbs less than you on the bike. However, if you find a road frame which fits, you can consider buying a new rear road wheel like I did, which had a modern cassette hub.

Most of a 1970s Schwinn will be bomb-proof except for the 10mm, standard rear derailleur axle, but Schwinn started sourcing frames abroad in the '80s and they're no different from other bikes.

If you go new, why not just contact the manufacturer? Why should their opinion of what works be less trustworthy than some small custom maker who is not worth suing?

Honestly, no offense, but the probable reason YOU (garage sale GT) can't find a vintage bike that "fits" you is because you apparently expect to find one in a LOCAL "garage sale" for under $100 ... or, is that twice what you're willing to pay for a USED frame/bike?

How tall are you AND what are your proportions -- torso, legs, arms?

Why don't you simply bypass the bikes/frames that don't fit (based on how contemporary frames are sized) rather than complain that the prior owner was probably taller than you?!?

While it's NOT as easy to buy a frame that doesn't fit from a bike shop, bike shops sell frames/bikes that don't fit the rider all the time!

Heck, if you were to contact RIVENDELL, they would sell you a frame that most would consider to be too large.

I think it's great that you (garage sale GT) are constantly trying to find that lost treasure to ride, but if you don't know how to work within the physical limitations of a wheel with a freewheel, then why don't you (garage sale GT) simply anticipate that ANY old frame/bike (that you aren't planning to restore to a close-to-original-state) will AUTOMATICALLY be upgraded with a NEW wheel that has a freehub (OR, anticipate relacing the old rim onto a new Shimano freehub instead of complaining that the old wheel is sub-standard, especially by today's standards) just as you should anticipate the possible need to replace the tires, cables & housing on a used bike?

There are MANY vintage ROAD frames in ALL sizes -- some sizes are more common than others -- you probably just have to look more than 10 miles away from where you live AND be willing to pay more than pocket change in some instances.

BTW. What's with the idea behind "suing" (!) or planning-to-sue (?) a frame builder or bike manufacturer when you are shopping for a bike?!?

 

[oldbobcat]

There are MANY vintage ROAD frames in ALL sizes -- some sizes are more common than others -- you probably just have to look more than 10 miles away from where you live AND be willing to pay more than pocket change in some instances.

BTW. What's with the idea behind "suing" (!) or planning-to-sue (?) a frame builder or bike manufacturer when you are shopping for a bike?!?

Hear, hear. Great old bikes are all over the place, you just need to ask, hunt, fix up, and trade to make one work for you. And when your needs change, you leave it to your little brother and find another one.

 

[berbes]

so, are you saying if i searched 'vintage schwinn' on ebay, eventually i might find one to handle MY frame ?

i can't afford to spend many hundreds on a bike that i (hopefully) can lose the needed weight on, to expand my selections for the next one. i remember my 1970's schwinn seemed to be able to handle everything.

 

[garage sale GT]

Honestly, n[/color]o offense, but the probable reason YOU (garage sale GT) can't find a vintage bike that "fits" you is because you apparently expect to find one in a LOCAL "garage sale" for under $100 ... or, is that twice what you're willing to pay for a USED frame/bike?

Rivendell boy has figured it out. My my, we are grand, aren't we? Pardon me while I go play the grand piano.

Hey Berbes, why don't you find out about those Rivendells? Bring a grand and some change.

The mass-market road bikes I have seen were all a little short in the top tube. I am sure if you spend enough time and money looking you would find one that proved me wrong.

It's not a problem for an upright bike but for a road bike, your abdomen tends to compress your diaphragm and lungs a bit. You just have to try it and see for yourself if it would be a problem. I found it an annoyance on my Schwinn, whose top tube is 1.5" shorter than the seat tube, but could still manage some speed.

If you do go used, I think you should have a shop true and tension the wheels. I wish I had started doing that sooner. I have learned to do it myself.

 

[garage sale GT]

...why don't you (garage sale GT) simply anticipate that ANY old frame/bike (that you aren't planning to restore to a close-to-original-state) will AUTOMATICALLY be upgraded with a NEW wheel that has a freehub (OR, anticipate relacing the old rim onto a new Shimano freehub instead of complaining that the old wheel is sub-standard, especially by today's standards) just as you should anticipate the possible need to replace the tires, cables & housing on a used bike?

Do you know how long ago I did that?

Why are your panties in a bunch over all of this?

Why the harebrained, baseless assumptions that I am both too stupid to stop using fws and inclined to make money with frivolous suits?

 

[garage sale GT]

BTW. What's with the idea behind "suing" (!) or planning-to-sue (?) a frame builder or bike manufacturer when you are shopping for a bike?!?

BTW. What's the idea behind shooting off at the mouth with some baseless, harebrained accusation? If you think through what can happen, then you must be planning to defraud a manufacturer, right?

You can sue Raleigh or Schwinn, and make some money. They know that. Therefore, they have a powerful incentive not to sell you a bike which will undergo structural failure and leave you sprawled in traffic. So ask them what they think.

In fact, their very sue-ability means they may have researched the issue more thoroughly than some fancy boutique builder. Maybe, maybe not, but you can be sure they have thoroughly considered the issue due to the fact that they might get sued.

As an aside, You can't ask a maker about a bike if that maker is out of business.


I have had a 3-speed frame fail, btw. I did not use the thing for freeride tricks; in fact, I only had to true the wheels when I first got it. Then the seat tube broke free from the bottom bracket. Probably a fatigue crack, since I wasn't doing anything too extreme.

 

[oldbobcat]

i can't afford to spend many hundreds on a bike that i (hopefully) can lose the needed weight on, to expand my selections for the next one. i remember my 1970's schwinn seemed to be able to handle everything.

Old Schwinns are cool, too. On ebay I'd search on 58-59 cm frame, whole bike, steel or aluminum. Building from a bare frame can be costly and labor-intensive.

 

[oldbobcat]

Hello-

I'm a healthy 325lb+, 6 feet tall, trying not to get to be a less healthy 350 and really a newb when it comes to a bike.

Did a little bird-doggin' on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1990-Cannondale...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/TREK-1400-Road-...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Cannondale-Road...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/RALEIGH-RACING-...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-SPECIAL...ryZ98084QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Happy hunting.

 

[oldbobcat]

The mass-market road bikes I have seen were all a little short in the top tube. I am sure if you spend enough time and money looking you would find one that proved me wrong.

At 6' and 325 lbs. I doubt that berbes needs to worry about aerodynamics. His main concern will be being sufficiently comfortable to stay on the bike long enough to burn off some calories.

Remember that everyone isn't built like you, GT. Eddy Merckx and I, nominally both 6-footers, did the best riding of our lives on bikes with 57 cm top tubes.

By the way, berbes, I empathize with you. I started riding again couple of years ago weighing almost 230, on the bike I raced on 25 years ago. The accommodations I made for my, er, robustness, were a set of 36-spoke clincher wheels with 25mm tires (on a set of Zeus freewheel hubs I had lying around), and raising the handlebar stem a centimeter. Even then my knees stuck out a little to keep from crushing my privates.

At 192 now, I lowered the stem and occasionally ride on my old racing wheels. My goal for this season is 180.

 

[garage sale GT]

I encourage anyone buying a used road bike to try several online fit calculators or get fitted, and find out the length of the top tube as well as the seat tube. Aero or not, there will still be a comfort issue if the top tube is too short.

That all goes for road bikes, though. I don't think it's too critical on an MTB or hybrid.

As for the pedal issue, some cruiser pedals have a much smaller diameter spindle than road or mtb bikes. Many road or mtb bikes come with cheap pedals because these days, they're just there to let you try the bike before you put your own favorite clipless pedals on. My guess is that quality pedals would hold up.

 

[alfeng]

BTW. What's the idea behind shooting off at the mouth with some baseless, harebrained accusation? If you think through what can happen, then you must be planning to defraud a manufacturer, right?

You can sue Raleigh or Schwinn, and make some money. They know that. Therefore, they have a powerful incentive not to sell you a bike which will undergo structural failure and leave you sprawled in traffic. So ask them what they think.

In fact, their very sue-ability means they may have researched the issue more thoroughly than some fancy boutique builder. Maybe, maybe not, but you can be sure they have thoroughly considered the issue due to the fact that they might get sued.

As an aside, You can't ask a maker about a bike if that maker is out of business.


I have had a 3-speed frame fail, btw. I did not use the thing for freeride tricks; in fact, I only had to true the wheels when I first got it. Then the seat tube broke free from the bottom bracket. Probably a fatigue crack, since I wasn't doing anything too extreme.

Honestly, no offense, but ...

What the hell was "not worth suing" supposed to be taken to mean in your earlier comment?!?

Based on the way YOU are using the English language, YOU are amongst only a handful of people who apparently are anticipating suing a bike manufacturer or frame builder ... so, "you must be planning to defraud a manufacturer, right?" OR, is it that you feel the Universe is trying to victimize you?!?

If you think a framebuilder's OR manufacturer's only incentive for not producing a reasonable product is to avoid litigation, well ...

Talk about someone with their panties in a bunch!

SHEESH!

Sorry to hear you had an old 3-speed frame break ... it could happen to any frame; and, unless you were the original owner, you really don't know what abuse-or-neglect the frame might have been subjected to. ... most frames are warrantied for the first year (i.e., NOT for a lifetime!).

 

[alfeng]

Do you know how long ago I did that?

Why are your panties in a bunch over all of this?

Why the harebrained, baseless assumptions that I am both too stupid to stop using fws and inclined to make money with frivolous suits?

BTW. I didn't say you were to stupid to stop using freewheels, but haven't you lamented/complained about them in the past (on a vintage Peugeot you bought used, or was that someone else?)?

While freewheels work, they certainly have their limitations ...

AND, like a lot of things, a freewheel (or, any other component) can wear out OR simply stop functioning properly due to neglect ...

Why are your panties in a bunch over all of this?