"Precious Pup" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
>
> Nick Burns wrote:
> >
> > "Precious Pup" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> > >
> > >
> > > Arthg wrote:
> > > >
> > > > My brother says he read somwhere (Velonews?) that Tyler was using a
33
> > > > inside ring so that he wouldn't have to stand as much
> > >
> > >
> > > If so, it isn't his "usual" FSA carbon crank, which is the standard
130
> > BCD; I've seen the pics of it. If it
> > > is a 110 BCD, that has been specially selected, then a 33t can be
fitted.
> > I use a 110 BCD crank (the old
> > > Ritchey Road double) to get that extra 1.5 to 2 gears lower on courses
> > with unusually steep climbs. The 53-33
> > > chainring step isn't as bad as I would have thought it to be.
> >
> > What derailleur do you use?
>
> I use a _double_ 105 in the front and a DA triple in the back (it doesn't
look as dorky as other Shimano
> triple rear ders). I shift the front via friction, not STI. I don't know
how the front Campy shifting works
> (friction or index?). I have a Veloce front I plan on trying someday.
>
> > I had wanted to try a 35 or 36 with my Campag
> > 10v. I would like to run a 52 or 53 but am willing to drop to 51 if the front shifting suffers
> > too much.
>
> I dunno, but I doubt you'd need to. I've used the 53x36 combo a lot too
and it works fine. I suppose mine
> might not satisfy some folks, but I like it. I can easily put a 33x28 low
on my bike, which is lower than the
> 30x25 Heras used at Angrilicu (sp) last year. To get this low I need only
change the cassette (and maybe the
> inner ring if I was using something else). No other adjustments are
necessary -- it is a 5 min job. I don't
> know about 10sp chainrings (tooth width issue) as I have a Shimano 9sp.
>
> There is the one-time tune-in cost of knowledge (once you know the answer,
the problem need not be
> re-solved). For one thing, you might want a little extra spacing between
the two chainrings and this has to
> do with the "throw" when derailling from the large (53) down to the small
(33). The large tooth difference
> calls for a bit more ring spacing in my experience (even with 9sp), as the
chain does come down at a bit of an
> angle. You want the chain to fall right onto the little ring. Loose
Screws sells ring spacers down to 0.6 mm
> if you can't get them locally. You know, you could just try a triple.
I've heard that they are pretty good
> with ramps, pins, gates, and front indexing.
>
>
> Here's my 110:
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/webalog/cranks_bbs_c-rings/12223.html
>
http://www.rivendellbicycles.com/images/catpics/12-223.jpg
Man, that is perfect, THANKS! Ten speed chainrings need to be a bit closer so if I leave it as is it
should be perfect. I also did not know that you could get a 53 in 110. I figured it would be custom
or at least very hard to find. I was looking at the Ritchey, the TA and the FSA cranks and I think
the Ritchey is the one I prefer. I wish Campy would make a 110 so that I was not forced to change
the bottom bracket. That is the only thing that will take more than a few minutes. I might just end
up putting it on one dedicated bike and leave it.
Thanks again.