Looking for a Bike - Any State Side Under $500?

[[email protected]]

Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.

I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
Tires; all 26 in? Dan

 

[Jim Flom]

<[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
> Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
> extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
> out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
> Tires; all 26 in? Dan

Shocks not necessary but may be part of the deal anyway. Raleigh's are
always good values. Here are two that should be under $400.

Passage 3.0 2007
http://www.raleighusa.com/items.asp?deptid=7&itemid=330

Passage 4.0 2007
http://www.raleighusa.com/items.asp?deptid=7&itemid=331

 

[catzz66]

[email protected] wrote:
> Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> biking some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
> Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
> extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
> out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
> Tires; all 26 in? Dan
>

There are quite a few mountain bikes from the major companies that will
be in that range. Look at Trek to get a feel for them. Whether or not
you really need suspension will probably be dependent on where you are
going to ride. I started riding again a few years ago and bought a used
Trek 4300 with front suspension and did not really care for it. It gave
me a too slushy feel for my city riding. I did not like suspension
stuff at all, so I took the opportunity to try road bikes with my next
used purchase, liked it and switched to road bikes entirely. If I ever
went back to a mountain bike for fun, I would personally not get
suspension for the kind of riding I do. Most mountain bikes come with
some kind of suspension nowadays, though. You have to go out of your
way to get one that doesn't have it. You may love bikes with
suspension, but they were not for me.

 

[Bob]

On May 20, 5:42 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
> Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
> extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
> out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
> Tires; all 26 in? Dan

Depending on the type of surface you'll be riding front suspension may
or may not be desirable. One thing is for sure though, suspension
forks weigh more than rigid forks. If you decide you don't mind the
extra weight of a suspension fork look for one with a lockout feature.
26" wheels are standard on mountain bikes but if by trail bikes you
mean hybrids, then you'll likely be looking at bikes with 700cm
wheels. If weight really matters to you and you want a more upright
riding position I'd suggest you try some hybrids before you buy a MTB.

Regards,
Bob Hunt

 

[tmac-100]

On May 28, 7:30 am, Bob <[email protected]> wrote:
> On May 20, 5:42 am, [email protected] wrote:
>
> > Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> > bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> > and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> > was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> > I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
> > Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
> > extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
> > out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
> > Tires; all 26 in? Dan
>
> Depending on the type of surface you'll be riding front suspension may
> or may not be desirable. One thing is for sure though, suspension
> forks weigh more than rigid forks. If you decide you don't mind the
> extra weight of a suspension fork look for one with a lockout feature.
> 26" wheels are standard on mountain bikes but if by trail bikes you
> mean hybrids, then you'll likely be looking at bikes with 700cm
> wheels. If weight really matters to you and you want a more upright
> riding position I'd suggest you try some hybrids before you buy a MTB.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Hunt

Getting a used bike is a worthwhile way to go. There are lots for sale
- often sold by folks who started bicycling "with good intentions" and
then dropped away because of...

Try garage sales, Craigslist, etc.. www.craigslist.org may help you.
Find your location in the list and start looking.

 

[SMS]

tmac-100 wrote:

> Getting a used bike is a worthwhile way to go. There are lots for sale
> - often sold by folks who started bicycling "with good intentions" and
> then dropped away because of...
>
> Try garage sales, Craigslist, etc.. www.craigslist.org may help you.
> Find your location in the list and start looking.

Just be aware that if the used bicycle isn't in perfect working order,
and you can't do repairs or parts replacement yourself, these used bikes
aren't a good deal.

I recently picked up a used bike on craigslist for $25. Another $40 went
into a new seat, tires and tubes. I also had to replace some wheel
bearings, which costs a couple of bucks since I did it myself, but a
shop would charge a lot for this.

If I had bought these parts not-on-sale, from a regular bike shop, and
had them installed by the shop, that $45 would turn into $150 or so.

 

[rdclark]

On May 20, 6:42 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.

Why do you think that? If you like a lightweight bike with drop
handlebars, why not get one?

I think the real question is if you plan to ride much on unpaved
surfaces. If you intend to stick to pavement, then a road bike will
still suit you best, and it's just a question of flavor.

There are a number of road bikes on the market now that offer a more
relaxed geometry and upright riding position without giving up too
much weight or the many benefits of drop bars. Some of them are
actually marketed as "comfort road bikes." Others are some form of
cyclocross or touring bike. Look at Bianchi(Volpe) , Jamis (Aurora),
others.

A variant is the "flat bar road bike." These used to be considered
"hybrids," but lately hybrids have become more like light-duty
mountain bikes. Most of the major brands have some of these. Some
companies market them as "fitness" bikes.

Among the many brands to investigate at your local bike shop: Jamis,
Raleigh, Jamis, Trek, Specialized, Giant, Kona, Cannondale, Fuji,
Surly. Some REI stores have good bike departments (and some don't);
REI's Novara brand can be good choices in bikes.

$500 is a borderline budget for a lightweight road bike. $800 should
be more than enough. $500 will buy you a good bike, don't get me
wrong, but it's more likely to have features you don't want (like a
suspension fork, useless on a road bike), or to not have drop bars.

The most important thing -- critical for an older rider with older
knees -- is fit. This is much more than just picking the right frame
size; it's going to a shop with staff that have the expertise and will
take the time to custom-fit the bike to you. This involves a number of
adjustments to the saddle position, the bar height, the reach(which
may involve swapping parts). Being able to do your shopping on
weekdays during slower hours will help at this time of year.

If price drives you into the used bike market, choosing a bike that
fits -- or can be made to fit -- becomes much harder for the neophyte.
Pay particular attention to the matter of whether the saddle can be
raised so that your knees are almost straight at the bottom of the
stroke, without the seatpost extending beyond its "minimum insertion"
line and, once thus positioned, if the handlebars can be raised high
enough. On many newer bikes they may not be height-adjustable at all,
and you'd need a replacement stem with a steeper angle, or a steering
tube extender.

I emphasize this matter of fit because if it doesn't fit it will hurt
to ride it, and you'll stop. We want you to not stop!

Hope this helps
RichC

 

[rdclark]

On Jun 4, 10:11 am, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> tmac-100 wrote:
> > Getting a used bike is a worthwhile way to go. There are lots for sale
> > - often sold by folks who started bicycling "with good intentions" and
> > then dropped away because of...
>
> > Try garage sales, Craigslist, etc.. www.craigslist.orgmay help you.
> > Find your location in the list and start looking.
>
> Just be aware that if the used bicycle isn't in perfect working order,
> and you can't do repairs or parts replacement yourself, these used bikes
> aren't a good deal.
>
> I recently picked up a used bike on craigslist for $25. Another $40 went
> into a new seat, tires and tubes. I also had to replace some wheel
> bearings, which costs a couple of bucks since I did it myself, but a
> shop would charge a lot for this.
>
> If I had bought these parts not-on-sale, from a regular bike shop, and
> had them installed by the shop, that $45 would turn into $150 or so.

My concern with a senior citizen who may not be overly bike-savvy
buying used is the danger of getting a bike that fits badly. How is
somebody whose last experience was with a Gitane sport-tourer from
1970 going to be able to evaluate a bike with a threadless stem, and
whether the bars can be set high enough, and what it would cost to
accomplish that?

I'm 55 and my knees are in bad enough shape that even a half-hour on a
poorly fit bike leaves me limping, yet I routinely do 100+ miles a
week on a bike that's properly set up. Fit really matters, and pain is
a very strong deterrent to cycling.

r

 

[Camilo]

On May 20, 2:42 am, [email protected] wrote:
> Looking for a bike and thought I'd ask. Been away from
> bikeing some 10 years or so. In the past I've used a Gitane ?
> and French built Follie ?. Both 10 speed road bikes. My last
> was a ?speed early trail bike. All bikes were stolen.
>
> I'm a senior, retired, and think a trail bike my best choice.
> Are front shocks a real plus? I do like light weight and the
> extended front handle bar; more the road bike. Checking
> out Iron Horse I see a 15 in frame is my size.
> Tires; all 26 in? Dan


If I were you I'd check into a "cyclocross" or "hybrid" bike. They
are usually based on the 700c wheel which is similar to the old racing
bike 27" narrow rim wheels you're familiar with. They also sometimes
come with a 26" wider rimmed, mountain bike sized wheel, but with a
street tread tire on it.

Frankly, you can build essentially the same bike with either wheel - a
thin and low tread 26" MTB wheel is very similar in function to a wide
and low tread 700c wheel.

Anyway, both of these bikes come with nice low gearing, but smoother
street tires, wide enough to roll over rough pavement and gravel
roads, but smooth enough to be efficient.

The question is handle bars and suspension.

You can get 26" wheel size bikes with front suspension (common), and
rear suspension (less common). Downside is they are heavier.

You can get 26" wheel size bikes w/ no suspension. The 700c wheel size
bikes generally come without suspension.

But you can get suspension seat posts and suspension stems for both
types of bikes and that might be a less heavy duty and more light
weight option. Not for serious rough MTB type trail riding, but, from
what I've read, good for commuting, rough streets, gravel roads, etc.

Handlebars: Most of these bikes come with flat handlebars, but they
do make them with the downturn road style handlebars. I think you
mentioned you like the downturned type of handlebars. I also prefer
them to flat bars just because they give more position options. You
can custom adjust the stem and handlebars to: raise up the handle bars
to a more comfortable positoin; select the bars themselves to have
less of a drop, less of a reach, etc. to fit your body and style.

Here's my retirement bike (I'm 53 and hope to retire in 5-6 years and
am getting less spry every year!): I'd get a 700c good quality hybrid
or cyclocross bike with downturned racing style bars, but with a less
pronounced drop - and a stem that would get the bars up even with the
saddle. I'd put nice wide tires on it, at least 700c X 38 , with a
moderate tread that would be OK on paths, but not for serious MTB type
use. If I was uncomfortable because of road roughness, I'd try one of
the suspension seat posts and/or stems (I've seen good reviews).

Finally, I might get a second set of lighter wheels w/ more
conventional road tires (say 700c X 28 smooth tread) for strictly road
use. I believe that this would 'convert' it to a pretty sporty road
bike.

I believe you could get into a decent quality hybrid bike for $500,
but you should check around. The other stuff, suspension seat post
and stem, additional wheels, could be added later.

 

[tmac-100]

On Jun 4, 6:11 pm, SMS <[email protected]> wrote:
> tmac-100 wrote:
> > Getting a used bike is a worthwhile way to go. There are lots for sale
> > - often sold by folks who started bicycling "with good intentions" and
> > then dropped away because of...
>
> > Try garage sales, Craigslist, etc.. www.craigslist.orgmay help you.
> > Find your location in the list and start looking.
>
> Just be aware that if the used bicycle isn't in perfect working order,
> and you can't do repairs or parts replacement yourself, these used bikes
> aren't a good deal.
>
> I recently picked up a used bike on craigslist for $25. Another $40 went
> into a new seat, tires and tubes. I also had to replace some wheel
> bearings, which costs a couple of bucks since I did it myself, but a
> shop would charge a lot for this.
>
> If I had bought these parts not-on-sale, from a regular bike shop, and
> had them installed by the shop, that $45 would turn into $150 or so.

Yes, you must have a good look at the used bicycle. I bought a used
(but almost brand new) Peogeot for $10. Then there was the $15 Chinese-
made ATB (no front shocks) that has been an excellent commuter - even
with steel rims. Man has that bike helped me shed weight OTOH,
you can spend over $500 on a bicycle and get almost no use out of it.

It all depends on YOU, and not on anyone else. If at all confused
bring a knowledgeable bike savy friend with you... EVEN to the bike
shop. I remember last year when a former student of mine (who bikes a
LOT and who is a bike mechanic) trying to sell me one of his shop's
touring bicyckes: about $1500 with 700C wheels and a nice slick paint
job and the latest shimano brifters, and...

I kept telling him what I wanted to do with the bike and he kept
telling me about how nice the brifters were and..

I ignored his sales pitches and instead had one built for my body ...
When I came back from my bicycle trip i brought the bike to the shop
and told him how useless brifters would have been in the outback (I
have bar cons) and how strong the 48 spoke 26" wheels were and... They
finally had to agree that my idea of a touring bike was not the same
as theirs....

Bottom line: get what you can, be prepared to make changes to the
bike, and get out there and bicycle (with apologies to Eddy Merx)

 

[Dane Buson]

tmac-100 <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> I kept telling him what I wanted to do with the bike and he kept
> telling me about how nice the brifters were and..

When the only tool you've used is a hammer, everything starts to look
like nails...

> I ignored his sales pitches and instead had one built for my body ...

Did you get a custom frame, or just a build up of custom parts on a
stock frame?

> When I came back from my bicycle trip i brought the bike to the shop
> and told him how useless brifters would have been in the outback (I
> have bar cons) and how strong the 48 spoke 26" wheels were and... They
> finally had to agree that my idea of a touring bike was not the same
> as theirs....

I don't partake of the activity, but the trials and downhill crowd have
made some decent heavy duty parts available. It's nice to be able to
get a 135 mm OLD hub with 48 holes without losing and arm and a leg.

--
Dane Buson - [email protected]
Rincewind formed a mental picture of some strange entity living in a castle
made of teeth. It was the kind of mental picture you tried to forget.
Unsuccessfully.
-- Terry Pratchett, "The Light Fantastic"