Problem With Rear Wheel Tyre Deflating Going Through Many Inner Tubes

[cowlover]

This problem has been going since the spring. In the spring I dusted off my bike and got it out the shed, then I had a slow puncture and I mean slow it took about a week to go entirely flat. I lived with that for a few months pumping it up before setting off. Then I decided to get a new inner tube and broke two inner tubes whilst inflating it they just went pop! Eventually I managed to get one in and inflated but noticed there was a bulge around the valve but decided to go cycling anyway and sure enough on every revolution I felt a bump but the problem seemed to go away the further I cycled and I got home and put the bike away. And now 2 weeks later I have just got the bike out and seen the tyre is completely flat and has a fast puncture. I've been using continental conti tubes race 28 (700c) and have been checking the wheel for sharp or foreign objects when changing the tube. Is there something obvious I'm doing wrong here? I don't want to keep forking out money for new tubes all the time and its really beginning to take the fun out of cycling for me. Any advice please? Am I using the wrong inner tube it looks the right size.

 

[Uawadall]

This problem has been going since the spring. In the spring I dusted off my bike and got it out the shed, then I had a slow puncture and I mean slow it took about a week to go entirely flat. I lived with that for a few months pumping it up before setting off. Then I decided to get a new inner tube and broke two inner tubes whilst inflating it they just went pop! Eventually I managed to get one in and inflated but noticed there was a bulge around the valve but decided to go cycling anyway and sure enough on every revolution I felt a bump but the problem seemed to go away the further I cycled and I got home and put the bike away. And now 2 weeks later I have just got the bike out and seen the tyre is completely flat and has a fast puncture. I've been using continental conti tubes race 28 (700c) and have been checking the wheel for sharp or foreign objects when changing the tube. Is there something obvious I'm doing wrong here? I don't want to keep forking out money for new tubes all the time and its really beginning to take the fun out of cycling for me. Any advice please? Am I using the wrong inner tube it looks the right size.

Same thing happened to me a few weeks ago. I replaced the rim tape that was in the wheel, it was uneven and causing the tube to inflate with weird bulges. A week later, I took a spill and had to replace my handlebars and get my wheels trued. If I were you, i'd get my bike tuned up by a pro and get your rim tape replaced.

 

[CAMPYBOB]

Talcum powder.

Use it. Love it.

Assuming you are using the correct size inner tube for your tire, powder your tire and tube. Carefully position the tube inside the partially mounted tire without twisting it. Try positioning the tube with around 3-5 PSI in it if it helps you out.

Put the second tire bead over the rim making certain not to pinch the tube with your tire levers and making sure the tire's bead does not pinch the tube. Use your fingers to compress the tire beads together and work any inner tube that is outside the beads to the inside of the tire.

SLOWLY inflate the tube to somewhere around 20-25 PSI. Again, use your fingers to massage the tire beads. Compress them and inspect the inside of the rim clinch for any exposed inner tube. Let the air out and re-inflate to around 40 PSI. Inspect the tire for full and proper seating in the bead seat.​

Let the air out again and then pump it up to full pressure. Inspect that tire for a good seat again.​

Thew talc is a lubricant. It allows the rubber tube to slide against the rubber tire and the rim strip. The sliding helps eliminate twisting and bunching of the tube.

 

[Metro Tyres]

Just put the second tire bead on the rim making which is certain not to pinch the tube exactly with the levers of your tires while ensuring the tire's bead never pinches the tube. Just make use of your fingers to forcefully compress the beads of the tyres together and work any inner tube which is outside the beads to just the inside of the tyre.