Shards of glass in the tyre
- Thread starter atlantis
- Start date
I use Super Glue on the road because it dries fast, but when I get home I redo a cut with Shoe Goo. I use to only use Super Glue but I don't think their making that type of glue as good as they use to. I use to be able to use it and not bother to reapply, but nowadays it doesn't last, it also doesn't stick objects together very well anymore. I've moved on to Gorilla Glue to stick objects together, but that stuff leaves a dry foam afterwards which you have to scrape off, but at least it holds.
If the cut is long and/or cuts the cord then I also add a Park Tire Boot to the underside of the cut to reinforce and prevent other debris from penetrating the cut and going for the tube. I just cut the patch about a 1/4 inch larger then the cut.
If the cut is long and/or cuts the cord then I also add a Park Tire Boot to the underside of the cut to reinforce and prevent other debris from penetrating the cut and going for the tube. I just cut the patch about a 1/4 inch larger then the cut.
Never bothered putting anything on tread cuts. The casing is what matters whilst the tread is just rubber and is no protection anyway. Putting more there in the form of shoo goo (or equivalent) will not make it any less susceptible to cuts. Then there's the old adage: "lightning never strikes twice in the same place"; there must be a tyre equivalent....
In any case, if the casing gets cut to the point where the tyre can burst out, I doubt faffing about with superglue will make it as strong as before. I'll boot it (if it has lots more wear to do) or chuck it. Good boots can be made from rubber shims or from double thicknesses of old tubes or sections of old tyres. In an emergency I have even used a $20 banknote (since I had no fivers or tenners - I got it back out of the tyre later) which are made from polymer in Australia. I've never paid for boots and don't see a need to.
In any case, if the casing gets cut to the point where the tyre can burst out, I doubt faffing about with superglue will make it as strong as before. I'll boot it (if it has lots more wear to do) or chuck it. Good boots can be made from rubber shims or from double thicknesses of old tubes or sections of old tyres. In an emergency I have even used a $20 banknote (since I had no fivers or tenners - I got it back out of the tyre later) which are made from polymer in Australia. I've never paid for boots and don't see a need to.
+1, although I have never used Gorilla Glue before. I will have to have a look into it. Also, re the underside of the cut (the inside of the tyre), the Park Super Patch will work also (depending on the length of the cut)
Hi Froze, I have found that Super Glue will not properly stick to the type of tyre compound (nano carbon) used in the Conti GP4000S. Although, Super Glue sticks without issue to the tyre compound used in the Kenda Kaliente
I don't know what's going on, if tire compounds have changed and thus rendering Super Glue all but useless or if Super Glue has weakened their formula because I know it doesn't stick two items together well any more at all, and if it does stick it falls apart later. I tried Super Glue in several different tires including GP4000's and Kenda Konstrictors and have had miserable luck with Super Glue working on any of those. Maybe the carbon content is higher these days thus the problem? Like I said if the cut is something I'm worried about I will use the Super Glue on the road but when I get home I put the Shoe Goo in. Most cuts I get only scratch the surface of the tire, I don't do anything with those, but if I can put a small screwdriver in there or fold the tire to open the cut and I can see the cord then I'm gluing it from the outside as well as a boot if the cut is longer then 3/16th of an inch. That may be overkill but it doesn't hurt to apply some insurance and it takes mere seconds to do. The Kenda Konstrictors are a tougher tire then the GP4000's and cuts on the Kenda's are very rare unlike the Conti's; I have one set of Kenda's with almost 3,000 miles on them and only one tire had a cut where I had to fill in glue and apply a boot on the underside to be safe, the cut did not cut the cord but it was about 1/4th an inch long due to running over a bunch of broken shards of beer bottles. By now the Conti's would have been cut up badly and flatted a bunch of times, i haven't had one flat on the Kendas.Originally Posted by KLabs .
+1, although I have never used Gorilla Glue before. I will have to have a look into it. Also, re the underside of the cut (the inside of the tyre), the Park Super Patch will work also (depending on the length of the cut)
Hi Froze, I have found that Super Glue will not properly stick to the type of tyre compound (nano carbon) used in the Conti GP4000S. Although, Super Glue sticks without issue to the tyre compound used in the Kenda Kaliente
Yeah, okay, the adage isn't actually true (mainly becasue there is something about the places where lightning strikes - height, minerals in the ground, prominent buildings etc) but I guess what I'm trying to say is that the surface area of a tyre (even a road tyre) is huge compared to the space taken by a small cut in the tread and the chances of getting more debris fitting precisely into the same cut is pretty bloody small.
The active compound in Super Glue is cyanoacrylate. If you want a better version, go to a woodworking supply store. You can buy it in various viscosities, all of them stronger concentrations than the Super Glue commonly available. One note is that Super Glue is an anaerobic glue--meaning it cures in the absence of air, so a very tight joint is important. You can also get accelerators that you apply to the surface before the glue, just beware that if you get the accelerator on you, then the CA glue, it will burn you badly.
Gorilla glue (a moisture-cure polyurethane glue--there are other brands of essentially the same thing) does foam, but how much depends on what you do. Here in typically humid Indiana, I never dampen the workpieces I am trying to glue--there's enough moisture in the air (or wood if that's what I'm gluing) for it to cure. Less moisture means a slower cure time, but less foaming.
I wouldn't worry about cuts that don't go through the outer layer of rubber, either.
Gorilla glue (a moisture-cure polyurethane glue--there are other brands of essentially the same thing) does foam, but how much depends on what you do. Here in typically humid Indiana, I never dampen the workpieces I am trying to glue--there's enough moisture in the air (or wood if that's what I'm gluing) for it to cure. Less moisture means a slower cure time, but less foaming.
I wouldn't worry about cuts that don't go through the outer layer of rubber, either.
Your not kidding that adage isn't correct, I just had a flat yesterday and the object penetrated a previous cut which this time went through the glue, the belt and just nicked the tube after penetrating the boot patch I had over the cut.
Interesting information.
I assume only woodworking supply places carry this better glue then and not hardware stores since I don't recall seeing anything different then your run of the mill SuperGlue's there? What is the brand you recommend? I don't need accelerators, just a strong superglue in a small tube.
I also live in Indiana, and discovered the same thing you did about the moisture, so I no longer apply additional dampness unless winter time.
Here are a couple examples of it:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/Search.aspx?action=n
http://www.amazon.com/1%252f2-oz-Stuff-Cyanoacrylate-Glue/dp/B001U2HG86/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1316638699&sr=8-5
If that first link doesn't take you to a screen with about 6 search results, just search for "cyanoacrylate".
http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/Search.aspx?action=n
http://www.amazon.com/1%252f2-oz-Stuff-Cyanoacrylate-Glue/dp/B001U2HG86/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1316638699&sr=8-5
If that first link doesn't take you to a screen with about 6 search results, just search for "cyanoacrylate".
You're right of course. I was being picky in terms of the physics of highly energetic, nearly explosive charge dissipation between the Earth at a given point and the atmosphere. A rough estimate of the probability of getting a another puncture (2.5 sq. mm) in a 23mm tire (r=320mm as measured on one of my 23mm tires), assuming that the contact patch width is 1/8 of the tire circumference, would be 14/10,000. Of course that number doesn't take into account the specific shape of the puncture or it's specific orientation. Assuming the puncture is 0.5mm x 5mm (big, I know), the orientation probability would be 1/180 and the shape related probability could be approximated by .127, so a bit more accurate probability would be on the order of 9.7/1,000,000. Of course, that's for a puncture the exact shape following congruently on a previous puncture of the exact same. If you just allow some portion of the new puncture to overlap the old puncture, the odds of a puncture at the same location go up, but I'll leave that calculation to someone else. I think it's pretty obvious from the numbers shown that such puncture would be rare.
I think the only valid reason for filling in a cut with glue or goo or whatever other substance you like is that it makes you feel better, and of course, that falls completely into the world of subjective decisions.
Please note that my calculations work for any units of measure, so they'll work for tires, tyres, les pneus, and so on. /img/vbsmilies/smilies/biggrin.gif
It's possible that depending on the needs of the user, they might need medical grade cyanoacrylate for any invasive tire surgery:
http://www.aspirebiotech.com/medical_grade_cyanoacrylates.html
Using the medical grade might prevent infectious cut karma from infiltrating the rest of the tire.
The same is often said about hitting the lottery. I dont want to start bragging but I cant help myself. I have hit the lottery twice in the past ten years. In 2002 I hit the Mega Bucks for 50.00 and again in 2007 for another 50.00. Dont bother asking for a loan. After turning away all the local charities I went out and bought some tires for my bike. As far as the odds go I should start buying tickets again in January.
True... but I suspect that not too many people carry the Eiffel Tower or the Empire State building on the back of their bikes
If you desire to carry some 30ft long Shimano carbon fiber fishing rods vertically on the bike of your bike when riding across the flatlands of the mid west during an intense thunderstorm then you might have a point.
Similar threads
