Which stem 73 degree or 84?
- Thread starter cenotouno
- Start date
FWIW. IMO, stem angle is as much a COMFORT issue as a COSMETIC ISSUE -- the latter is influenced by a person's aesthetic sensibilities ...
Regardless, comfort should supersede cosmetics.
- 'I' don't have second thoughts about setting up a MTB with a 'flipped' stem
- but, I prefer setting up a Road bike with the stem in the lower orientation THAT requires choosing the correct size frame AND stem
- OR, as necessary, the correct size stem for the given frame for me
Regardless, comfort should supersede cosmetics.
Back in the day when top tubes were horizontal, 73-degree stems were the norm, brake hoods were a few centimeters lower than the top of the handlebar, and bar drop was generally 130-150 mm. These days most bikes have extended head tubes, the notable exceptions being H1 Madones and Felt F-series. Handlebar drop is in the 125-135 mm range. And brake hoods are level with the top of the bar.
So some riders are using 73 degree stems to compensate for tall head tubes, but most are slamming stems that are in the 80-84-degree range. The Schlecks, on 56 cm Madones, are the only two I can think of who have both short head tubes and 73-degreee stems, and they don't look all that awkward. Even Alessandro Ballan is sitting up a little higher than he was before suspension.
If any of the guys I ride with are using 73s, they've got them pointing upward. I say, use an 80-84-degree stem unless you're dealing with a tall headtube.
So some riders are using 73 degree stems to compensate for tall head tubes, but most are slamming stems that are in the 80-84-degree range. The Schlecks, on 56 cm Madones, are the only two I can think of who have both short head tubes and 73-degreee stems, and they don't look all that awkward. Even Alessandro Ballan is sitting up a little higher than he was before suspension.
If any of the guys I ride with are using 73s, they've got them pointing upward. I say, use an 80-84-degree stem unless you're dealing with a tall headtube.
Back in the day...
Bike were built in 1 CM, or at worst case, 2 CM, increments. And no one cared if the stem quill protuded 1", 2" or to the max. extension line.
Now, bikes come in 4 or 5 sizes and a slammed stem is the new black. And head tube lengths vary quite a bit from one manufacturer to the next. As does the remainder of the geometry.
Worse, a the various manufacturers used a wide range of dimensions to describe their geometry and comparing geometries is often difficult.
Cosmetics aside, the 84° stem (6° or 7°) is the new 'standard' with the odd 10° thrown in.
Ride what fits and feels good.
As OBC stated, even some of the professionals are going for a little more upright position on the bike. 6-7 hours even on shallow drops is hard on the old back! Also, some climbers prefer a little higher front end if they climb out of the saddle.
It's all personal preference in the long run.
Bike were built in 1 CM, or at worst case, 2 CM, increments. And no one cared if the stem quill protuded 1", 2" or to the max. extension line.
Now, bikes come in 4 or 5 sizes and a slammed stem is the new black. And head tube lengths vary quite a bit from one manufacturer to the next. As does the remainder of the geometry.
Worse, a the various manufacturers used a wide range of dimensions to describe their geometry and comparing geometries is often difficult.
Cosmetics aside, the 84° stem (6° or 7°) is the new 'standard' with the odd 10° thrown in.
Ride what fits and feels good.
As OBC stated, even some of the professionals are going for a little more upright position on the bike. 6-7 hours even on shallow drops is hard on the old back! Also, some climbers prefer a little higher front end if they climb out of the saddle.
It's all personal preference in the long run.
Thanks Campy and Oldbobcat Here how it set up, I have larger frame to my size but I like it. My head tube is quite large at 19cm. I know I can still play with handlebar position and hoods height. My current Ritchey stem is 84 degrees.
I'll love your input. --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?3jccme
What frame size is that? It 'looks' proportional to me for most fast riding styles.
Agree that a 19 CM head tube is fairly tall for pro racing. My 'Large' size Wilier Izoard has a 16 CM headtube.
As long as you can dial in the reach with a 100-140 MM stem and the saddle height is achievable...you're golden.
Again, that's a very nice looking Cento!
Sleazy Wilier pron attention-***** shot of my cheap road racer:
Agree that a 19 CM head tube is fairly tall for pro racing. My 'Large' size Wilier Izoard has a 16 CM headtube.
As long as you can dial in the reach with a 100-140 MM stem and the saddle height is achievable...you're golden.
Again, that's a very nice looking Cento!
Sleazy Wilier pron attention-***** shot of my cheap road racer:
Thank you Campybob It is XL frame. I'm good with the reach and seat tube height. It is cut though. I am 6 feet. The seatpost clamp sit 71.5 cm above middle of BB. The Cento is really fast I had other frames smaller with shorter head tubes like Scott and Felt but by far the Cento Uno is the more smooth and faster ride. I was just thinking a lower reach with 73 degrees stem will be as good as now, will cancel a bit the longer head tube and will look more pro style. I'll might check it but first I will drop a bit the bar level, and see how it feels. Thanks for all your input. David --- I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?rp0mnh
I can't make out your headset top cap/spacer setup, but maybe a change to a shorter top cap or dropping a spacer?
Rather than jump from a 84°/6° to a 73°/17° with a huge 11° drop change, you might want to try a 80°/10° by Easton, Pro Vibe, TTT, Thomson, etc.
IIRC, that gives you about 8.5 MM more drop with a 120 MM stem.
An 11° change would be about 23 MM more drop. with a 120 MM stem.
Rather than jump from a 84°/6° to a 73°/17° with a huge 11° drop change, you might want to try a 80°/10° by Easton, Pro Vibe, TTT, Thomson, etc.
IIRC, that gives you about 8.5 MM more drop with a 120 MM stem.
An 11° change would be about 23 MM more drop. with a 120 MM stem.
The Ritchey Carbon headset bearing cap is quite high as you see in picture #3. I have no spacers play anymore. I might use or look to find a flat top cap instead of the Ritchey. I read in few Cento Uno's reviews that they change the bearing's cap since it was too high to a flatter one. I also took another picture after I lower the handlebar position (sorry for the quality)
David
Yes, the top bearing cap.
Some manufacturers offer a tall and short version for the same headset. I'm not sure what Ritchey offers, but mine is almost flat.
Here's an interesting item... http://slamthatstem.com/headset-bearing-cover with a fit chart: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As8i_CVe6mC9dERPeVUzVWZxakVQLXJNNVE3Zk9uYUE#gid=0
Some manufacturers offer a tall and short version for the same headset. I'm not sure what Ritchey offers, but mine is almost flat.
Here's an interesting item... http://slamthatstem.com/headset-bearing-cover with a fit chart: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0As8i_CVe6mC9dERPeVUzVWZxakVQLXJNNVE3Zk9uYUE#gid=0
