Exactly uwhat he mentioned. He recommended replacing the entire assembly. Is this expensive? I lost my bid for a chain. Do I have to get a Shimano or how do I find an equivalent?
Wish I found this site before Craigslist
- Thread starter simplyserving
- Start date
By entire assembly, he means axles, cones, bearings, nuts? Or are the cups in the hubs pitted too? Unless your axles are bent, I don't see why he'd want to replace them. I don't know what it costs. There are a number of chains out there. You can research the price of every kind of bike part at various places. I usually use Niagara Cycle Works and their web site lists every size bearing and kind of cone , axle and nut.
http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php
http://www.niagaracycle.com/index.php
disassembling and servicing a hub it's not that easy, you will also need special tools for that,
when you are on a budget, just go for the things that are absolutely necessary to get you on the road at first,
then take it from there and make improvements as they are needed one by one,
when you are on a budget, just go for the things that are absolutely necessary to get you on the road at first,
then take it from there and make improvements as they are needed one by one,
Alright. Whatever the axel part is which is in need of replacement should only run me about 15 dollars. I can live with that. I was out and about and ran across a larger bike store. I was able to pick-up a Sram 951 chain for around 18 dollars so my need to keep trying to win one on Ebay is over. I am well on my way. While I was in there, I spoke with the salesman and picked his brain a bit but had questions after I left. He mentioned that when a bad chain is ran for a while, the damage usually occurs in the cassette. As each day passes, I am putting the pieces together (figuratively speaking) that the previous owner performed no maintenance. He was going to ride this bike to its grave. My question is this; how can you tell if your cassette is bad? If I have to replace the cassette, do I have to stay with the same gearing, meaning, my bike currently has a 9 speed 12-25. Does it have to be a 9 speed (i gather so now that I have a 9 speed chain) and does it have to be a 9-25?
Here are three pics: the first two are of worn cassettes, and the third is of a new cassette. Note the shape of the teeth on the worn cassettes compared to the new one. Worn teeth can become quasi-pointy as shown, and they also can take on a hook-like profile. Hell, the can also just break.
Your cassette should be inspected closely for wear, and it would likely be a good idea to mount a new cassette with the new chain, given the poor care the bike may have had. A 10 speed chain will work fine with your setup but might more expensive.
As for the cassette, you'll need a 9-speed cassette. SRAM or Shimano cassettes will work (assuming you have Shimano compatible hub on the rear wheel (highly likely). You can likely nab new 9spd cassette on eBay for very little dosh. As for the gear range of the cassette, you're only limited by what's called the capacity of the rear derailleur, a measure of the amount of slack in the chain the rear derailleur can take up. Every rear derailleur has a specific capacity. To find what capacity you need, do this:
- Subtract the number of teeth on the smallest cassette cog from the number of teeth on the largest cassette cog. Call that "A".
- Subtract the number of teeth on the smallest chain ring from the number of teeth on the largest chain ring. Call that "B".
- Add A and B, and that gives you the capacity your derailleur needs to accommodate.
What you to consider though is what sort of gearing you need, and that is going to be a function of the terrain you'll be riding (flat, hilly, mountainous, as well as windy or not) and your physical condition. Your gear ratio will be the the number of teeth on the chain ring in use divided by the number of teeth on the cassette cog in use. For instance if you're using a 50 tooth chain ring on the front and a 25 tooth cog on the back, the gear ration will be 2. That gear ratio is just telling you how many times the rear wheel turns for each revolution of the crank arms. Lower gear ratios are easier to pedal and make it easier going up hill, while higher gear ratios are tougher but allow higher speeds on descents and on flat terrain. I realize you may not know what sort of gear ratio you need, but the folks on this forum can offer advice on that. What size chain rings (in terms of number of teeth) do you have? Also, forgive me if I missed this, but do you have a double or triple crank (double has two chainrings, while a triple has three)?
Since you seem to want to know more about bike parts, their function, and other such things, consider visiting the two following websites:
- Sheldon Brown's website: http://sheldonbrown.com/ . Sheldon has departed this plane of existence, but his friends/family/shop are maintaing his site. That site is a treasure trove of bike facts, how-to's, and etc. It's a great first stop for someone new to cycling.
- Park Tool's maintenance and repair website: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help . This is a good site, even if you're not interested in doing your own repairs and maintenance as it also explains things about bike bits very well. If you are interested in maintenance and repair of your bike, the Park Tool site has tutorials on virtually anything that might need done to a bike.
As Scotttri mentioned above, YouTube has loads of video tutorials on bike maintenance and repair. Of course, you can also ask questions on this forum. There are many foks on here with extensive bike repair and maintenance knowledge. To be afraid of asking any particular question. All of us were new to cycling at some point and had many of the same questions you are asking now.
Update: I just realized that AlanG already posted the link to Park Tool's repair site.
He Simplyserving. I think we are all glad to help and it is an interesting game to try and diagnose your issues and give repair advice sight unseen simply based on your various updated reports. It is too bad you don't live near me because it probably would have taken me less time to fix your bike than to write these posts.
One good principal to keep in mind when you check over your bike either before it is worked on, after wards, or some time in the future is all of the stuff should work smoothly. And if it is smooth it is probably ok to ride. A lot of this you can check yourself pretty easily and the Park Tool site explains how to check for wear and any kind of adjustment problem.
Here is some basic info that you probably should have known before buying the bike but it should still help you.
http://www.usedbicycleguide.com/Bicycle%20Inspection.html
One good principal to keep in mind when you check over your bike either before it is worked on, after wards, or some time in the future is all of the stuff should work smoothly. And if it is smooth it is probably ok to ride. A lot of this you can check yourself pretty easily and the Park Tool site explains how to check for wear and any kind of adjustment problem.
Here is some basic info that you probably should have known before buying the bike but it should still help you.
http://www.usedbicycleguide.com/Bicycle%20Inspection.html
Awesome guys. I am learning a ton on this forum and I am truly grateful. Out of the kindness of his heart, Goodbyecycle is hooking me up with a cassette and tires. I am beside myself from his and all of your kindness. I truly feel part of something special, something where riders are more passionate about seeing others share in their enthusiasm rather than be concerned only of the dollar. I have shared the story of all of your kindness with others and they are becoming interested in riding. I live in a smaller town and our nearest bike shop is 45 minutes away. This particular shop realizes that they have a bit of a monopoly and unfortunately exploit others. This is why I am having my bike worked on by a one man shop who is skilled to do the work but lacks the parts connection. I want to eventually assist him with that. He is an older fellow who has not tapped into the resources the internet has to offer. When I told him about the generosity of Goodbyecycle, he stated that I did in fact needs these parts but he also realized my limited income at the present. He said I could have gotten by with the tires and cassette on the bike but not for very long. The lack of maintenance by the previous owner had taken its toll on the bike. Anyways, I am extremely excited to hopefully soon be on the bike (hopefully this Saturday). It is at the gentlemens house where he will be putting on the chain I picked up, lubing whatever needs to be lubed, swapping the tires (until the others arrive) and moving the front brake pads to the rear as they are not as worn on the ones currently on the back. He said that I will have to replace them soon but they should be fine for now. I won't be cruising very fast as I only have 10 minutes ride time to my name during a previous fitting. He wants me to ride with him so he can diagnose any other issues. On to my next question, mandatory accessories. I found a wedge Bell bag in the clearance rack at Walmart for 5 bucks. I bought a set of levers for a couple of bucks and the previous owner did give me new tubes. Here is what I know I need and would live recommendations on good yet cost concious buys. Helmet. There are some cheap ones on Ebay from China for about 12 dollars. Walmart carries Bells for about 18. What do I need to consider in regards to a helmet? Pump. I saw some small, frame mountable pumps at Walmart for 10 dollars. I know my tubes have the Presta tips and I believe this one had an adapter. There is no gauge so I take it this is just to get you back, not continue unless I had a tire pressure gauge I picked up a used plastic water bottle and holder for 5 bucks so I should be good there. Pedals. The bike has basic bike pedals on it which I think are fine for now. I have read about the advantages of clips and eventually I may look at them or the "saddles" I think they are called where you foot slides into them and are strapped. Not ready for the shoes yet though. Maybe a birthday gift down the road. Bar wrap. The wrap currently on there is a bit chewed up but I think I can get new wrap for relatively cheap, right? What do I need to consider here? What am I missing here before my first ride? I have some decent workout gear from when I use to run which should suffice. Any future thoughts on clothing needs? Thanks guys. Through your help I should soon be on the road! It's all I have been thinking and talking about. My wife said if she has to hear one more word about me riding she is going to go crazy.
Amazon is also a good source of bike parts. http://www.amazon.com/ACTION-CASSETTE-9SP-SHIMANO-TIAGRA/dp/B001B7IKT4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1323822673&sr=8-9 This will work if you need to replace your cassette.
Edit: posted link to wrong cassette at first.
Edit: posted link to wrong cassette at first.
There are several existing threads that deal with what a cyclist should carry. Here is one of them but there are others that you can find using the search function: http://www.cyclingforums.com/t/471308/what-do-you-all-carry
Concerning helmets, I would pass on the cheap helmets from China. All helmets that are sold in the US by US based retailers have to comform to CPSC safety standards. I am not certain but I will bet that the Chinese eBay helmets don't necessarily conform to the CPSC safety standards. BTW, really expensive helmets do not provide any more protection than cheaper helmets as long as they both comply with the CPSC standards. The expensive helmets just look better, may have more vent openings, and may be lighter. Here is a link that really gets in depth concerning the helmet safety standards: http://www.bhsi.org/standard.htm#therest
Mini-pumps are just as you said, they are there to get you back home, and you'll wear out your arm doing it if you are going to use a Wal-Mart pump. Most decent minipumps that won't kill you are going to run around $40. You can pick up a CO2 Inflator and a couple of extra cartridges for less. What you will eventually need is a floor pump with a gage. There are some very goodd, very expensive ones out there but Performance Bicycle has some pretty good ones for around $30.00.
Like you said, the basic pedals will do you well until you can afford a better pedal system. BTW, the classification of pedals is confusing. There are "clipless pedals" which actually have cleats that hook into the pedal and the act of hooking the cleat into the pedal is called "clipping in". Unhooking the cleat from the pedal is referred to as "clipping out". Go figure. The other kind is called "Toe clips and straps". The toe clip and strap arrangement form a basket that the front half of your foot fits in and helps position your feet and holds them on the pedal. You may need a pair of shoes sooner than later if you get a pair of clipless pedals. Also, if you suffer from numbness in your feet from riding, you will need a pair of shoes that have a harder sole.
Basic Handle Bar Tape can be had fairly inexpensively. It can get more expensive if you start looking at the gel filled tape or CF tape. For right now on your budget, you should probably look into just basic cork tape.
You probably don't need any special clothing for your first ride, but one article of clothing that you will want before you start logging a lot of time in the saddle is cycling shorts. They can be either the tight fitting ones or baggy touring style shorts. What makes them special is that they have chamios padding in the rear to reduce chafing and absorb sweat. They are also sewn without seams in the crotch to further prevent chafing. A lot if guys consider their cycling shorts to be nearly as important as the bicycle for enjoying cycling. You also need to be ready to replace the saddle on your bicycle if the one that is on it already is not comfortable for you.
It sounds like you have a pretty good grasp on what you need for a first ride. Just make sure that you have a cell phone with you if something breaks that you can't fix on the road and a couple of dollars in case you need to stop somewhere and refuel (consume carbs). Good luck and enjoy your ride.
Thank you very much for the info, especially the pedal info. I have to admit, I am still a bit confused about the difference between a cleat and clip or clipless. I will do a bit more research on it. I have been scouring the internet looking for a decent used helmet. That may be my best bet unless I go with a brand sold at department stores like Schwinn or Bell. I also have read a bit about the pants or shorts. Is one better than the other (pants vs. shorts)? Still researching the pump issue as well. I gave a floor pump already, just need a frame pump. Getting closer to Saturday and my first ride. I am very excited and will be sure to share my experience. I know it will be a good one. Sounds like the guys I am riding with (the mechanic working on my bike and his friend) are planning a short ride (so they say) of about 3 hours. Is this typically a short ride length? He said I want to be sure to log my mileage. Is there significance to doing this other than knowing mileage on various parts on the bike and personal goals? Thanks and I would greatly appreciate anyone chiming in with things I should know/do before I set out on thus ride. I am sure there are great articles about it but to be honest, I thoroughly enjoy hearing the opinions of those on this thread. The knowledge base is unreal. I feel as though I am a student of each of you and its a great learning platform for me.
I don't know what kind of shape you are in but even if you are in good shape but haven't ridden in a while, 3 hours may be pretty challenging even if they go really slowly with several stops. You probably need to get used to sitting in a saddle with shorter trips and get your legs and body used to cycling. You don't want to overdo it on your first rides but 3 hours won't kill you either if you are fit. But if they are experienced riders they'll have to be willing to wait for you. On the other hand, I know a guy who with minimal biking experience simply bought a bike and then rode it in a 100 mile charity ride with no problems. But he was a professional trainer and was in terrific shape. I hope your fellow riders are looking out for you.
Bike helmets are made to withstand one impact event only. That is how they keep them so light. The new Schwinn or Bell Helmets should be fine choices for you. Skimping on a helmet is a bad idea. I'm not saying you can't find a good used one that will hold up for a while and protect you. However manufactures recommend that their helmets be replaced every 3-5 years because they can degrade over time. If you insist on buying a used one make sure it has absolutely no signs of impact and fits snugly and properly.
Bike helmets are made to withstand one impact event only. That is how they keep them so light. The new Schwinn or Bell Helmets should be fine choices for you. Skimping on a helmet is a bad idea. I'm not saying you can't find a good used one that will hold up for a while and protect you. However manufactures recommend that their helmets be replaced every 3-5 years because they can degrade over time. If you insist on buying a used one make sure it has absolutely no signs of impact and fits snugly and properly.
Please don't buy a used helmet. You won't know what has happened to that helmet before you receive it. Is it worth a few dollars to potentially sacrifice your safety? As mentioned, bicycle helmets are good for one crash with impact on the head. Frankly, that's the case for motorcycle helmets, too. Motorcycle, car racing, and bicycle helmets protect the head by destroying themselves, in the process decreasing energy and momentum imparted to the wearer's head. You can get brand new CPSC certified helmets for $40, give or take a handful of dollars. I'd also be comfortable wearing a helmet that meets Australian, (AS/NZS), European (CEN), British (BS), or Japanese (JIS) standards, and possibly a handful of others. I would not be comfortable wearing a helmet built to standards set by China given how regulations are followed and/or enforced in China. CPSC certified helmets are likely going to be the least expensive.
I'd be wary about jumping right into a three hour ride on the first ride. You ought to do a few rides on your own just to get a feel for your condition and abilities right now.
I'd be wary about jumping right into a three hour ride on the first ride. You ought to do a few rides on your own just to get a feel for your condition and abilities right now.
Alan G and alienator are right about your first ride. A short ride for a beginner is totally different from a short ride for an experienced cyclist. I have a lady friend who rides with me occasionally and we typically ride about 20 miles. This is about all the farther that she can go so for her it is a long ride. For me, it is a short ride. Shorts aid in cooling, pants help keep you warm in colder weather. They both are good depending upon the conditions that they are to be used in. I wouldn't wear shorts if the outside temperature is less than 40 degrees, and I wouldn't wear pants if it was going to be above 60 degrees. If you have really ugly legs, you might feel more comfortable wearing pants all the time/img/vbsmilies/smilies/rolleyes.gif. As for a helmet, go to Wal Mart and spring for the Bell or Schwinn helmet. They are CPSC Certified. Anything that you buy on the Internet probably won't get to you until after Saturday. To me, buying a used helmet would sort of be like buyng used underwear, except that the sweat and other unmentionable bodily fluids can be washed out of used underwear but not out of a used helmet. Pedals come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and types. The following text is from sheldonbrown.com, the photos are from eBay. I hope that these photos help eliminate your confusion. Pedal Types 
- Plain pedals rely on the rider's coordination to keep the foot properly located on the pedal. This type of pedal is most popular with beginner or unsophisticated riders, who fear being unable to put a foot down in a hurry.
- Toe-clippable pedals (sometimes known as "rat trap" or "quill" pedals) which work with stirrup-like clips and adjustable straps to hold the foot in place. These were the near-universal choice of knowledgeable cyclists until the 1980's. Toe-clip pedals, especially "platform" pedals, may be used either with normal street shoes or with special cleated shoes. The use of cleated shoes with toe clips, however, was made obsolete by the development of:
- Clipless pedals, which provide a positive connection between the shoe and the pedal, without the constriction of straps. Some clipless shoe-pedal systems have protruding cleats, while others have recessed cleats so the shoes are walkable
Thank you kdelong for providing the description along with the photos. It helped me head exactly what the different types of pedals are. I remember the guy in the larger bike shop when I took my first ride mentioning there were pedals which functioned differently by rotating the pedal. I also appreciate the advice on the helmet by all of you. I think I will opt for one of the cheaper yet new ones. I'm always afraid that I am going to buy the wrong helmet though, meaning one built for MTB as opposed to road. I also believe I am going to stick to a shorter ride even if the others continue on. I am afraid that my pride would outweigh my abilities and I would pay for it later. While I consider myself to be in good shape for a 40 year old, I could use some conditioning. I've also been looking at riding shorts/pants. I see something called a bib which reminds me of my old wrestling singlet. I take it the purpose of these is to prevent the shorts from sliding too much thus helping to prevent chafing, right? Are gloves of importance? Thanks again gang.
The pedal you used in the larger shop were flat pedals on one side and spd pedals on the other. The spd pedals are a type of clipless pedal, so they work by having a cleat on the bottom of the shoe snap into a receptacle on the pedal. Such pedals work like a ski binding.
The only functional difference between a mountain bike helmet and a road helmet is the visor, and some people like having a visor (to shade the eyes a bit) on the road. Given that, it doesn't matter whether you buy a road or mtn bike helmet.
You've got the bib thing right, except that bibs include a chamois--padding in the groinal region--just like shorts. Which ever you choose depends on personal preference. It seems that the majority (maybe not a huge majority) or regular riders (not necessarily commuters) use bibs, but that might just be an impression that results from my own bias. I'm a bib user. There are, however, no shortage of folks who prefer and have great success with shorts. All else being equal, shorts will be the cheaper investment of the two.
Most riders use gloves, while some don't. Gloves can provide some level of padding (depends on manufacturer and model) which can in some cases decrease the amplitude of fatiguing vibrations, decrease the impact of big bumps, and/or decrease the chances of hands going numb. Most gloves have a terry cloth patch on the thumb for wiping the nose or for wiping sweat from your brow. During warm times, riders typically wear short fingered gloves (not all riders though and fewer mtn bikers do so), and when things get cold, riders turn toward full fingered gloves. Gloves can also provide a modicum of protection from road rash in case of a crash. It's impossible to say whether you'll need gloves or not.
Don't discount your condition because you've passed 40-some years on Earth. The forties aren't old age. Ask Jens Voigt, a Pro Tour rider for Radio Shack. He's the peloton's resident hard man (and his heir to the throne is Lauren Ten Dam). Two years in a row he had major soul-crushing and body breaking crashes in the Tour de France and will be there again this upcoming year. Here he is in yellow shoes:
In the hospital:
And on the road:
As a bonus, here's Lauren Ten Dam after a particularly nasty get-off in this years Tour de France:
This kind of two sided pedal is often called a "campus pedal." Performance Bike sometimes sells their Forte brand campus pedals for $40. Shimano makes some like that and also some that are two sided but not as thick. If you are not buying shoes, then don't buy any new pedals because your choice will be limited to two sided pedals and you won't be able to use the SPD clip in part anyway. So you might as well stick to your old pedals until you learn about shoes - road or mountain, and decide what kind of clip in system you want.
In the mean time consider getting some "half clips" for you current pedals - if they have holes for mounting them. Half clips are very in-expensive (under $10) plastic devices that attach to the pedal and let you get your toe under them. This helps keep your feet in position and gives some resistance when pulling up. And it is not restrictive in any way so you can get your feet out quickly. This is probably re-assuring with beginners. I use half clips sometimes when I ride in extremely cold weather and wear heavy winter boots.
By the way, I'm 59 and in pretty good shape... I think. At least a 3 hour ride is still a short ride for me. /img/vbsmilies/smilies/wink.gif You've got a lot of riding ahead of you and I hope I do too. But I'm a better skier than I am a cyclist. I can ski down a mountain at high speed with no concern, but the idea of crashing a bike at speed scares me from pushing it on descents.
Simplyserving,
Alienators posts covers all the bases.
I think your bike shop is leading you on into having repairs that you probably don't need.
Most manufacturers websites have good tech support sections. Shimano has a great "tech tips" page that covers the basics and really isn't Shimano specific.
http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.html
Lennard Zinn, the makes of all things long and tall for the big and beefy, has a good book on bicycle maintenance.
http://zinncycles.com/Zinn/index.php/bookdvd
The book on Road Bike maintenance is what you're after... but the skill building book probably would be a good bet too.
If you can look after a gun you're more than qualified to look after a bicycle. Forget that it may be made from "space age" carbon fiber or "aircraft quality" aluminum - it's a bike. Just the same type of bike that folks rode around on decades ago. Sure, adjusting the gears is a little different and the brake cables go under the bar tape but it's just a bicycle - two wheels a frame and a bunch of bits that are fastened on in a specific manner... and that's something you can find out for yourself on the manufacturers website.
Tools - you can probably pick up stuff like allen wrenches much cheaper in the bargain bucket of the local auto parts store. Get a set that's 2.5mm to 10mm and you'll be covered. For cycling specific tools like cone wrenches, Park Tools are a good bet.
Wow. Now that is some serious markings from the road. I spent a year in Kandahar, Afghanistan where there were daily volleys of incoming rounds and I think the photos of the guys above were more gruesome than most I saw in a war zone. I like the idea of the half clips. I will have to check my pedals out to see if there are holes to mount them. If so, it sounds like a good investment until I can figure things out a bit more. I also think I am going to ride a few times in just my Adidas warm-up pants so I can gain a better appreciation for the cycling attire. Is there much if a concern with pants getting caught in the chain? I also have these silk undergarments (we called them Ninja suits because they were black and the tops have a space to slip your thumb through. I guess they are kind of like a loose fitting tight with a tapered leg. Perhaps these under some shorts would be better than the loose fitting warm-ups. Thoughts? I was also a police officer at one time and have some nice, thin gloves which were used during frisks. These should work I believe. Shoes are just some nice Asics running shoes although I may break out an older pair I have at first. I have a pullover which has a zipper half way down and is nylon. If you can't tell. In addition to ensuring I have the correct gear and the bike is in good shape, I also don't want to get out there and be that dorky dude with the Care Bear helmet and My Little Pony light up shoes. I get it that a lot if cycling gear (at least the better stuff) is costly. I will eventually get there little by little as funds become available. I guess in order of prioritization, the helmet (cheap one) is a necessity for this weekend. I woolly snag one of the Bells or Scwhinns from Walmart. I picked up a used one at a yard sale last weekend for a dollar. It was one like they have at Walmart but the pads were toast. Another guy had an old cracked helmet but the pads were good. I may just combine the two. Still looking at the frame pump issue. I figure if I am riding with others at first, I could always borrow theirs until I get one unless there is some unwritten code that doing so is taboo. I have a water bottle and a wedge bag with the levers (i git he blue plastic Park Tools ones and the guy working on my bike is not a big fan. He said they are hard to slide under or something. I have 2 tubes, a cell phone, and that's about it for now. Oh, the other thing I need to check is whether or not my floor pump has a Presta Valve adapter, right? We bought the pump a while ago for balls or something like that but I believe its a decent one. I am sure that after a few rides, my newest priority will be some padded shorts. I hope that some time in the future, I am the guy sitting here answering questions of another newbie. I am actually going to try to solicit some other Soldiers in my unit to start riding. We have some beautiful places to ride in VA.
