My second cat 4 race - another video for you guys to watch.

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by collin2985, Apr 14, 2013.

  1. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    Safety Recall Almost Monthly?
     


  2. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    Thank you so much for your answer. I tried in the hilly trail i go with 25 cog is was hard maybe because i have 53-39 crank. I go slower but not so bad i used ride nichiki century steel bike in that trail i had 52/42 crank and freewheel 14-28. As you say i need to do some experiments. I think if i found 9 speeds cassete 12-23 i try with the 53/39 see how i ride, If is really hard to pedal uphill or i have to work i put 25 or 27 maybe 28 i not know if i found used 9 speeds cassete.I have crank too 52-42 and ring 40 i try found 36 too i not know made crank 52/36. My bike ride good also i have one cannondale saeco frame is 61cm too tall for me no have parts to build that frame i wonder how is ride. I not want use all the parts from MY cannondale R300 in the saeco frame for just i see how the saeco is ride. is too much work for i do that
     
  3. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Quote by Swampy:
    "Safety Recall Almost Monthly?"

    shimaNO Replacement Always Meliorates.
     
  4. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    With a standard chainset (130mm bcd) the smallest inner ring you can get on a double is a 38. It's physically impossible to go smaller than that. A different cassette would be the easiest way to go. With a chain whip and a lock ring tool you could change it yourself - or just take the rear wheel into the bike shop when buying a new cassette and they'll likely do it on the spot. It only takes a few minutes. A 28 sprocket is much easier than a 25. A different compact chainset, depending on make/model, could be had for a reasonable price off eBay IF you could install it yourself. Having a gear low enough for a ride is key. There's no need to splash a ton of cash on a fancy chainset to save 100 grams. To put things in perspective, it takes a whopping 1 watt to move each extra 1lb on a 7.5% grade. I don't know of a powermeter that could even measure that accurately if you're popping out 200+ watts on a hill.
     
  5. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    Whatever Bob ol' chap. The Dura Ace 9000 front hub in my new front wheel spins for days and is aluminum art. Just like sex, the balls are gently cupped and not sealed...
     
  6. collin2985

    collin2985 Member

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    Dehydration

    [​IMG]
     
  7. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    Thank you for your answer. Never i look in that weight fancy parts example i used to ride road bikes i had found in thrift stores old steel bikes road and mountain. That bike i have now i buy from pawnshop. I have the tools to replace the cassete my self. Never i have go in bike shop for repair or install parts on my bikes i do my self. About low gear you say good. I try have 28 cog i know is good for the hilly trail i go. I try found one cassete 9 speeds to give me high gears middle gears and low gears. Is not have big jumps. What i never can found is okay i know the gear ratio. But i cant found how i calculate what cassete size is good for the terrain i ride
     
  8. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    You can calculate gear speed at different rpms and guesstimate what gearing you'd need or if you have a powermeter you could calculate to a high degree of certainty what gear you'd required for a given power output... ... But generally just going out and riding hills is the easiest and most accurate way. Experience will tell you after that.
     
  9. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    I not have power meter. Now general in hills with road steel bike i had before with 52/42 and 28 cog is take me uphills but is was heavy bike slow me down. With the aluminum road bike i have now in same trail with 53/39 and 25 low gear is take me uphill the 25 is hard but generall i feel i go some faster than the steel bike
     
  10. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    I do one cassete 9 speeds. 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25. I have seen online people say 16 and 18 tooth is good i not know if i can find cassete in 9 speeds include the 16 and 18 and have low gears too like the 28. My bike front wheel is flat i had new innertube no have ride for long time i not know how is get flat i guess bad innertube. Do you know what innertube is good. Also i put tire 28c i have before 23c. My wheels is fulcrum racing 7.
     
  11. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    16, 18 - 15, 17, 19... The difference is small and I wouldn't worry about it at all. As long as you have enough gears to climb with some degree of comfort and the top gear is big enough the gears inbetween are what they are. Tony Martin just smashed the Tour de France field in a rolling time trial using an 11-32 cassette with huge gaps between the next sprockets. If you have the form then the gears will take care of themselves. Merckx went faster on a 26lb bike than I ever would on a 12lb top of the line bike.
     
  12. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    Hello how are you. I am sorry for my late reply i be at work today. Thank you very much for your answer. I have in my job one man ride bike daily is had told me used do races local and i know ride fast too i have ride with him around my job one time but i cant keep up with him i have single gear bike this time small crank anyway that man not looks is know about mechanical stuff on the bike or what cassete size is good or crank, Thank you for you tell me thinks. I not try do any race i am 47 years old. What i like when i ride is i try go fast and do many miles. I try setup my bike good in good working order for i know if i cant go fast or go uphill is because is me as rider nothink wrong with the bike example i have choice wrong size cassete for the terrain or crank size. About the bikes weight you say good is most in the rider i think i see that eddy merckx hour record with 52 crank and 14 cog. That wide cassete you say is make me interesting for now i put the 12-25 with the 53/39 crank. I have one 52/42 crank and 40 ring too spare but i not want downsize my crank. Because i scare ride on the road i not trust the cars i go only in two bikes trail. The one bike trail i used ride one old nichiki century road bike steel frame i had 52/42 crank and freewheel 7 speeds 14-28. I have do 40 miles in that hilly bike trail. Is just 10 miles long. Is hard trail because is have some short but steep hills. I used ride every day after work 20 miles. With the aluminum road bike i have now i had low gear the 25 but one time ride not give me really the time to see if 25 is okay for that hills. Now i put one better cassete is not skip i go one day to ride and see how is go. One weird think do my bike is when i turn the crank with my hand i feel is some hard. I take out the chain from the ring is turn the bottom easy i not know if i need new chain or the cassete no match the chain or the crank. i know i have put all that parts my self from spare parts i have
     
  13. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    If it's not the crank that's hard to turn, see if the back wheel spins forwards easily with the chain off. Also, with the chain off, check the two pulley wheels on the rear deurailleur. The lower cage that the pulley wheels are in sure be parallel with the chainrings. If you find difficulty in spinning the crank forward with the chain on and making the wheels turn, check that the brakes aren't dragging on the rim. Unless the chain is both trashed and bone dry, I can't see it being the cause of the "problem."
     
  14. Cuberacer

    Cuberacer New Member

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  15. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    Nice, Cube!
     
  16. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    thank you for your answer. The bike i have buy used. Casete is was 7 speeds i put 9 speeds. I not know if the chain is made for 9 speeds, i see like example now the chain is on the 21 cog from the 19 cog is have little space very tine but is touch the 23 cog. I not know if is regular do that. Bottom bracket is turn friendly with the chain off. the rear wheel is turn friendly brakes no touch the rim i have adjust the wheels in the rear deraiuler is turn friendly. The chain never i have lube. what lube i can use. is feels as is dry. But other chain i used on my bike do same think. maybe both chains need lube and clean. is used. When i ride the bike i not feel is turn hard the crank now when i turn the crank by my head i feel is turn step by step like how i say not turn so easy
     
  17. collin2985

    collin2985 Member

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    Second attempt at this ride and I got murdered by the rolling hills and had to break off early.
    [​IMG]
     
    Colnago62 likes this.
  18. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    What size crank and cassete you have in the second attempt. On my bike now i have 53/39 crank and 9 speeds cassete 12-25. I start go when i can in hilly bike trail have the elevation from 700 feet to 900 feet. The other trail i want try do century is almost flat as people tell. I wonder if my setup is okay or i need lower gears. On my mind before i think. Always i try think what high gear i need to start the cassete. example cog 12. Or is better i start from the lower gears cog example 30 cog and go down in numbers that way i have low gears in case i need like you say rolling hills
     
  19. swampy1970

    swampy1970 Well-Known Member

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    The big decision is what is the biggest sprocket you need to get up the hill - 23, 25, 27 - or even 29 or 32. Alberto Contador has used a 32 in many a stage of the Giro d'italia when he won. He didn't need them in his Tour de France wins because the hills there are not that steep.

    The top gear is a split decision of "how fast do you want to go down hill" and "how much of a gap can you put up with between the gears in the middle of the cassette?" If you have no desire to do 50mph down hill, then you won't need an 11. You'll likely not need a 12 either.

    The problem arises in that there's only a limited number of cassette combinations available. If you want a 27 then you may be stuck with a 12-27 an no other options. I wanted a 32 biggest sprocket a few years ago for a 10speed setup and had to get 11-32 because that's all there was. I would have preferred a 12-32 and had the 12 and 13 sprocket at the bottom as it would have been better on the rolling downhill roads at medium effort than the massive 11 and 13 gap.
     
  20. bobbyl1966

    bobbyl1966 New Member

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    Thank you for your answers is very helpfull. I am not good in downhill i can do 50 miles. I see i not need 11 or maybe 12. I do that setup now. 53/39 crank and 9 speeds cassete. 12-13-14-15-17-19-21 23-25. because my funds is low now i go in community bike shop to find parts. For this reason i found that size cassete or i do from parts i say better. race i not do just when i go for ride i try beat my own time i go faster i can. One bike trail i go is 10 miles long. I do average speed 12 miles is have 900 feet eevation. that speed i used do with vintage steel road bike 52/42 crank and freewheel 7 speeds 12-28. With the bike i have now i have go one time in that trail but the gears had skipped is not let me really i see if i go faster than the vintage bike. Now i know is most the rider not the bike how fast can go. what is middle gears on the cassete is from maybe 15 cog until 19? For my wheel i cant found info what size cassete fit. I have wheels fulcrum racing 7,
     
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