Polar CS600 Power - First on the Block...

[J-V]

Thanx J/V,

if I get it right, then it should be a weak connection of the battery holder of the powerpaddle.
Does anybody have pictures where the problem sits and how to get it fixed?
This would be very helpful.

max51

If the battery connection is not the problem, it is almost certainly an internal problem within the power sensor itself ('paddle', as you put it). This assumes proper setup as far as chain-to-sensor distances go. If distances are not extreme and it is not a battery issue, you likely need to send it in for service to brace (or pad) the internals of the power sensor.

Good luck.

 

[goodboyr]

Perhaps we might want to summarize from all the posts here what the potential problems are as a convenience to someone encountering this thread for the first time...feel free to add:

1. Distance of chain to power paddle
2. Ensuring good batteries (lithium) and good battery holder connections
3. Power paddle internal fault - initial (a DOA paddle).
4. Power paddle internal fault - during use (some production runs with loose internals that degrade after outside ride vibrations)
5. Chain speed sensor DOA ( green light on, red light doesn't come on)
6. Cadence magnet positioning ( too far away from paddle, so its an intermittent trigger)
7. Operator error (sensor not learned by monitor, batteries or battery pack inserted incorrectly, monitor not set up to read power sensor)


OTOH, I've installed several of these now, and they work like a charm! From my point of view, if installed correctly, and Polar service is great when dealing with the manufacturing issues above, this is the most cost effective and versatile power meter. I install the battery pod on the underside of the chain stay, and that makes it a much neater and unobtrusive install.

 

[max51]

Perhaps we might want to summarize from all the posts here what the potential problems are as a convenience to someone encountering this thread for the first time...feel free to add:

1. Distance of chain to power paddle
2. Ensuring good batteries (lithium) and good battery holder connections
3. Power paddle internal fault - initial (a DOA paddle).
4. Power paddle internal fault - during use (some production runs with loose internals that degrade after outside ride vibrations)
5. Chain speed sensor DOA ( green light on, red light doesn't come on)
6. Cadence magnet positioning ( too far away from paddle, so its an intermittent trigger)
7. Operator error (sensor not learned by monitor, batteries or battery pack inserted incorrectly, monitor not set up to read power sensor)


OTOH, I've installed several of these now, and they work like a charm! From my point of view, if installed correctly, and Polar service is great when dealing with the manufacturing issues above, this is the most cost effective and versatile power meter. I install the battery pod on the underside of the chain stay, and that makes it a much neater and unobtrusive install.

Actuallly today power, cadence, infact everything worked great. I went for a 2 hour ride. No dropouts, no zeros I'm happy. All I did was take out the battery holder yesterday and then checked the connection judging it should be good enough although I'm not an expert. I just hope if there is an issue, it's the weak connection because that could be repaired from an expert around the corner but if it is something else I would have to send it to Polar which will probably take its time to use it again.
Already I'm a bit addicted to this kind of cycling.

max 51

 

[swampy1970]

Huh? 150m over a 3 hour ride? What unit is that? I want to know what to stay away from...

That's easily an order of magnitude larger than anything I've ever seen over 3-5 hr. rides with the Polar.

I thought I'd give this thread a read as I'm thinking off either adding the power module to my CS600 or selling it and getting something else - but what? I like my wheels so the Powertap is out of the question and I have PowerCranks and can't see me ponying up $3000 for the Power Crank equiped PowerCranks (yes, it's like PowerCrank squared! Mucho confusing power measuring independant cranks....)

You think that losing/gaing altitude is bad when starting and finishing a ride on the road, you should try losing 30ft during a 2 hr ride on the trainer in the garage! I thought I was getting fitter but maybe I'm unknowingly riding downhill!

 

[iPAQsRock]

I'm in dire need of some expert help.

I just received my CS600 back from Polar and it seems they did nothing to help me out as I'm still experiencing the same issue. I'm able to get the green and red lights to flash and I'm also able to get the power teaching function to say it completes, but all I get are 0's for the cadence and power. Speed and HR work fine. Any suggestions out there?

I'm riding the Houston to Austin MS-150 in three days and really hoped to have the unit available.

 

[Tom Anhalt]

I'm in dire need of some expert help.

I just received my CS600 back from Polar and it seems they did nothing to help me out as I'm still experiencing the same issue. I'm able to get the green and red lights to flash and I'm also able to get the power teaching function to say it completes, but all I get are 0's for the cadence and power. Speed and HR work fine. Any suggestions out there?

I'm riding the Houston to Austin MS-150 in three days and really hoped to have the unit available.

Are you getting a "flash" from the cadence trigger? No cadence signal, no power calculation.

 

[iPAQsRock]

Are you getting a "flash" from the cadence trigger? No cadence signal, no power calculation.

Tom

Thanks a bunch! I moved the paddle over a fraction of an inch toward the crank and that seemed to do the trick. Seems like that magnet is not very powerful. Thanks again!

 

[goodboyr]

I'm in dire need of some expert help.

I just received my CS600 back from Polar and it seems they did nothing to help me out as I'm still experiencing the same issue. I'm able to get the green and red lights to flash and I'm also able to get the power teaching function to say it completes, but all I get are 0's for the cadence and power. Speed and HR work fine. Any suggestions out there?

I'm riding the Houston to Austin MS-150 in three days and really hoped to have the unit available.

You might want to remove all devices, relearn the power module, and make sure Power and cadence are checked on the bike settings on the cs600. Sometimes removing all devices first before relearning helps. Make sure there are no other power sensors or CS600's nearby. Other than that, I'm stumped.

 

[goodboyr]

You might want to remove all devices, relearn the power module, and make sure Power and cadence are checked on the bike settings on the cs600. Sometimes removing all devices first before relearning helps. Make sure there are no other power sensors or CS600's nearby. Other than that, I'm stumped.

LOL. Replied before reading all posts!!! Duhhhhh.

 

[iPAQsRock]

LOL. Replied before reading all posts!!! Duhhhhh.

Thanks, appreciate the help goodboyr. Before I moved the power module closer to the crank, I tried just that, I deleted all the pairings and had them all re-learned to no avail.

 

[Tom Anhalt]

Tom

Thanks a bunch! I moved the paddle over a fraction of an inch toward the crank and that seemed to do the trick. Seems like that magnet is not very powerful. Thanks again!

No problem. Yep...the facts that 1.) it's not very strong and 2.) the mount isn't too secure either are the main reasons I HIGHLY recommend finding a stronger "rare earth" style magnet to replace it.

Something like these "rod" magnets should work pretty well.

http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/SearchResult-CategoryID-34.html

You want to get the largest diameter, longest rod that you think will work. Align the magnet so that the N-S axis is parallel to the PM case (i.e. in line with the crank arm). I glue mine in place with simple DAP contact cement, although the ones I use are actually rectangular (a lucky "salvage" of some scrap magnets from my work). That seems to work pretty well on both aluminum and carbon crank arms. Experiment with different mountings and I'm sure you'll find something pretty secure.

 

[eugkimj]

I hate to say it, but I may be switching back to my Garmin 305. First, I've never been able to get the HRM strap (wear link) to work. I called customer service, but they felt it was because I never washed the strap after use. Supposedly, the salt from sweat builds up in the contacts, causing problems. However, mine never worked since new. I haven't bothered to wear it after the first 2 times.

Other than the HR, the whole thing was working great. Then, my first drop for about 5 minutes. The next ride, the power wasn't working. I replaced the batteries which helped until the next drop. I disconnected the power cords, and it worked again.

What I discovered was that the pertinent measurements for me were - time and distance. I'm a creature of habit, so I tend to ride the same route (21 miles) almost every time. Therefore, I find that time seems more helpful in tracking my progress. I haven't gotten used to following power, and since the HR isn't working anyway, I don't bother to upload any data to my computer. Plus, I haven't gotten any full readings anyway.

I know it's my own fault for not sending the wear link back, but then I'll have to send the head unit too, and I'll end up reinstalling my Garmin anyway. It's funny how I've been following this thread, and saw the frustration from some of the posters. Now I see how people might just get fed up after a while. I'll probably give it another chance. However, when I cut the zip ties holding the paddle, it'll be gone forever.

 

[Digital P]

Well that's what Polar like to call customer satisfaction.

I had more problems with the heart rate monitors from them and they never serviced them and always told me that the failure was by design or that it was due to the use of the product.

I now have a CS600 with power and it fails from time to time. So maybe I try one last time to get it right with them but I'm afraid that I will get the same answers as I had.
So next time for me it will be no more Polar product.........

As a customer I don't want to get the blame all the time for the failures in their products.

Very expensive for the service delivered and the follow up on warranty sucks.........

 

[RHR38]

Had couple of rainstorm rides in a row and ran out of teflon spray so I put some motorex wet lube. It made quite impressive grit must admit.. Did not cleaned it away that soon and all units work fine but numbers are too high.

If 5' 8 1/2" person weights 126 and rides 20 min testride (calm day, tableflat route w/ 1 turn back) averaging 24,2 mph with regular road setup (imitating tt-position on top of the handlebars) normal roadie clothing helmets aso and average power is like 371...?? It can't be.

Any ideas or toughts about grit in chain > how much it affects power readings? Must chain be 'dustfree' to get correct readings? Setup is ok I think; chain weighted w/ quality scale w/ quick lock included, chain lenght measured quick lock included, span lenght measured. Unit is lifted so chain is inside 1 inch, gearing is 46/39 and 14-25.

 

[surista]

Quick question - I recently picked up the CS600 w/Power W.I.N.D. Installation wasn't as bad as I had feared - but boy, could Polar have possibly made the Power unit red/green lLED any harder to see? I was only able to pick it up after turning all the lights off

Anyway - I'm not quite sure I have everything setup right, but everything seems right. My problem is similar to iPAQsRock - I get one quick red light when plugging in the battery pack. I get a green signal when the cadence magnet passes by the cadence notch. However, I do NOT see any red LED that apparently I'm supposed to see when the chain passes the chain sensor. The power training function completes fine, but the cadence training function does not - i get 'sensor not found' and 'try again?'. At first I thought the cadence magnet was the problem, but I get the green light perfectly as the magnet passes. Already made sure all settings etc. were completed in the CS600.

I'm stumped - any suggestions?

 

[goodboyr]

When I got mine, the chain speed sensor was defective. Had to call polar and they sent me a new one.

 

[surista]

When I got mine, the chain speed sensor was defective. Had to call polar and they sent me a new one.

Txs for the reply - I was wondering that myself, except that the computer unit says the power training was completed...although that does match the 'green light ok, red light doesn't come on' symptom of the chain sensor being DOA. Hmmm...

 

[JohnMcP]

The power training function completes fine, but the cadence training function does not - i get 'sensor not found' and 'try again?'. At first I thought the cadence magnet was the problem, but I get the green light perfectly as the magnet passes. Already made sure all settings etc. were completed in the CS600.

I'm stumped - any suggestions?

If you've 'trained' the CS600 computer to recognise the power unit, then you don't need to train it for cadence. The cadence training is only necessary if you have the optional cadence sensor (i.e. no power unit, just separate speed and cadence sensors). If you have a power unit and the training has worked for this, then the CS600 will pick up both power and cadence signals from this unit.

McP

 

[JohnMcP]

Any ideas or toughts about grit in chain > how much it affects power readings? Must chain be 'dustfree' to get correct readings? Setup is ok I think; chain weighted w/ quality scale w/ quick lock included, chain lenght measured quick lock included, span lenght measured. Unit is lifted so chain is inside 1 inch, gearing is 46/39 and 14-25.

My latest CS600 (Oh, I've had all the issues in the book!!) has survived a season on the winter/commute bike with all the water, gunk, dust etc that entails...I don't think additional material on the chain is likely to be affecting your data.

I know you've checked the vertical alignment of your setup but, just in case you haven't done so already, check the horizontal too...I think the power pick-up has an area around 2cm x 2cm just to the rear of the series of raised dots: the chain needs to pass ocer this in all gear combinations to get a strong signal. If the signal is not strong enough the computer will latch onto some other vibration and give you competely meaningless data. (i.e it won't be 'out'...it will be 'wrong').

McP

 

[surista]

If you've 'trained' the CS600 computer to recognise the power unit, then you don't need to train it for cadence. The cadence training is only necessary if you have the optional cadence sensor (i.e. no power unit, just separate speed and cadence sensors). If you have a power unit and the training has worked for this, then the CS600 will pick up both power and cadence signals from this unit.

McP

Txs for the reply - I turned off cadence under the bike settings - still no-go.

Ultimately, the problem is I essentially never see the red LED that is supposed to blink (chain sensor). The only time I see the red LED is the very first time the cadence magnet goes by the cadence sensor area on the power unit - the second time on, I get the green LED.

I don't think the cadence sensor is the problem - at this point I am highly suspect of the chain sensor unit; I think I probably got a bum unit...