Touring wheelset...



David wrote:
> Jim,
>
>
>>hmmmm, you do not cite which page, and you didn't bother to context the
>>link to the 90% statement. it may have been clear to you, but not to
>>me. and having quickly scanned the site, i /still/ don't see a 90%
>>statement.
>>

>
>
> Read the part where the rim will ovalize under a 200lbs load with
> loosely tightened spokes. Any stiff rim, including the A719 or the
> T520, T519 will ovalize or go out of true when built poor or tensioned
> incorrectly. Therefore, the stiffness of the rim has nothing to do
> with the final stiffness of the wheel, hence the 90% figure. The 90%
> figure is just what I think, but seemed to concur with another master
> builder in town who he seemed to agree with me.


ok, 3 things:

1. by definition, rims distort [ovalize] under load, /regardless/ of how
many spokes support it. if it didn't, there would be no load. the
extent of ovalization under load is a function of rim thickness, not
spoke tension.

2. going out of true is a function of localized plastic deformation,
which is precisely why "stress releiving" the wheel is so important.
it's got nothing to do with ovalization under load.

3. the stiffness of the rim is fundamentally important to the stiffness
of the wheel.

to paraphrase; "er, i reckon it's 90% and my buddy reckons that's about
right". just doesn't cut it david. sorry.

> Spokes take all the
> stress (compression and torque) and therefore, they all have a fatique
> lifespan which (depending on the spokes you use) sometimes can be
> shorter than the rims they hold, if ridden in very dry and sunny
> weather all year round.


spokes don't experience torque, just tension [not compression] in the
main span and bending at the elbow.

>
>
>>besides, do you really think a low-pro lightweight racing rim is just as
>>stiff as a heavy duty touring rim?
>>

>
>
> You are comparing apples and oranges here..


no, i'm comparing rims to rims. that's valid.

> Light weight low spoke
> count wheels carry less spokes, tensioned much higher than normal
> wheels and the rims are designed stiffer to compensate for that, while
> still maintaining light weight status.


tension has nothing to do with weight. and it doesn't have much to do
with count either.

> Therefore, it has less (or
> lesser) meat area (braking) than say a T520 or a A719.


you mean thickness, not area. it's the rim thickness that decreases
with wear, not the rim area.

> If both are
> ridden in foul winter weather with constant braking and pads are
> contaminated with sand and grit, the pro lightweight rims will be
> killed sooner than touring rims. When the braking area of the rims
> have less than 1mm thickness on both sides


thickness, not area.

>, you are looking at
> structural integrity being compromised really soon -- rims will break.
> The A719 will break later, because it's got a lot of meat area. And
> yes, I replaced my T520s twice a year and that is using Koolstop black
> pads!
>
> David.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:

>
> I don't understand the marketing intelligentsia. The Mavic MA-2 was
> the standard of the industry, available here and in Europe in every
> bicycle shop. What have they gained since then? The Ksyrium looks to
> me to be a caricature of the syndrome both in name and execution.
>
> Jobst Brandt


Jobst,

What's worst is that, I am seeing the industry gradually adopting to
carbon wheels as the next "fixin" for fools. Good or bad?!?

Ahhh... The Ksyrium wheel. Neither aerodynamic like the Zipp 404 or
909 and neither light compared to some of the custom hand built wheels.
Easy sell. Hand built 32 spokes or even 28 -- harder sell, except
maybe to a seasoned veteran who knows better.

Well Jobst, welcome to an era of disposable wheelset and it's going to
get more carbonic once the Chinese knows a thing or two on how to
perfect it!

David.
 
On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 10:04:23 -0400, PatC <[email protected]> wrote:

>I'm looking to have a set of touring wheels hand-built, but I need to do it
>on a budget (I think about $350.) Dollars are relative though. If I can
>get significantly lighter, more durable wheels, I would probably spend
>more.


After all the other good questions have been answered, let me question
the underlying assumption here. Why do you want to buy a wheel set?
Why not concentrate your money on buying a super-duper tough rear
wheel, and simply making sure whatever you have on the front now is
tensioned and stress-relieved?

I ask because I'm a clydesdale and I've ridden through two rear
wheels, but I'm still on the original front. If it would somehow just
break, I could get rid of the red spoke wrench...

Pat

Email address works as is.
 
[email protected] wrote:

> and a shopping day at 70 pounds rear 20 pounds plus front.


Man, what are you buying, a big screen TV every weekend?


> i take it slow over bumps to reduce maintenance time but have ridden
> the 70 pounder over a ten mile course at 25 mph-downwind or downblast.
> this is a Conti TT 27"/cr-18/14 ga dt/deore hub/25 bearings/philwood or
> finish line teflon grease.


Your favourite Walmart, Castrol bearing grease $2 for a tub that will
last you a lifetime. Put in roll-up squeeze tubes for the road. The
others won't do you any better.

> it works ok but frankly traveling across the country with the full
> touring load at around 70 pounds total minus beans wood not be a sure
> thing. one would expect failures


For full camping, 40lbs should be more than plenty, 50 if you are
carrying food for a week. I can't imagine how to get up to 70.


> for cross country with the stove and beans, i'd go with the phil wood
> and an extra TT wound against the rack. and a pump that will reliabley
> get the TT up to 75; a FRESH b earing and greased phil wood plus FRESH
> spokes


http://tinyurl.com/c2oxg
 
[email protected] wrote:

> Well people who haul everything including the kitchen sink don't need
> to ask about wheels, they have the experience about what works. I
> decided long ago that eating and sleeping at the end of long daily
> rides is best done in a dining room and sleeping under comfortable
> covers under roof. I tried the camping routing and decided that I had
> had enough of that in the US Army. I like to ride rather than to
> emulate Mayflower Moving and Storage.
>
> I encourage riders to consider saving up a small travel chest for the
> expense of enjoying the ride. Putting up a shelter and getting in to a
> sleeping bag in the rain is not my choice, and I have observed many
> thunderstorms in the night on tours in the Alps as well as the Sierra
> Nevada locally. When I finish a day's ride in bad weather, a hot
> shower and warm food before getting un der warm covers is what makes
> the day's ride an adventure rather than part of an ordeal.


On the other hand nothing can beat winter camping for ski touring,
enabling access to vast areas otherwise inaccessible. No rain (usually)
and no bugs either (usually). B
 
jim beam wrote:

> [email protected] wrote:
>> If it uses the same number of spokes, it will have close to the same
>> radial stiffness as the next rim.

>
> you know, i could easily misinterpret that as meaning that you're
> clinging to the misconception that stiffness is a function of spoke
> tension


???

--
Benjamin Lewis

Now is the time for all good men to come to.
-- Walt Kelly
 
Quoting Pete Biggs <p@melonbiggs{remove fruit}.tc>:
>[email protected] wrote:
>>What sort of roads are you guys riding on?

>Partly: London urban streets, with such a large number of vicious bumps and
>potholes that I can not avoid them all because of distractions from traffic,
>etc.


I do wonder what London you ride in. I'm not saying that I never ever fall
into potholes in London, but it certainly isn't a big problem.
--
David Damerell <[email protected]> Kill the tomato!
Today is First Gloucesterday, September.
 
In article
<[email protected]
>,

Ted Bennett <[email protected]> wrote:

> What forces do spokes see besides tension?


Flexing at the elbow.
Flexing at the nipple if the direction of the nipple out
of the rim is different from the spoke from the flange.
Flexing occurs each time the spoke rotates to the bottom
and takes up the load of the bicycle.

--
Michael Press
 
David Damerell wrote:
> Quoting Pete Biggs <p@melonbiggs{remove fruit}.tc>:


>> Partly: London urban streets, with such a large number of vicious
>> bumps and potholes that I can not avoid them all because of
>> distractions from traffic, etc.

>
> I do wonder what London you ride in. I'm not saying that I never ever
> fall into potholes in London, but it certainly isn't a big problem.


It's not a big problem when you either ride slowly and carefully enough
avoid all the bad ones or use very strong wheels or fat tyres. But it is
/potentially/ a massive problem, serious enough to cause personal injury and
damage to wheels, especially when the deep pothole is hit at speed. There
are plenty of holes and bumps that bad all over inner London's roads.
(London, England).

~PB
 
Pete Biggs wrote:
> Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
> > Pete Biggs wrote:
> >> A719 is indeed too wide for a 28mm, IME.

> >
> > No they aren't I have installed 28c and even 25c tires onto A719s.

>
> I think that's a strange combination. A719 deserves wider tyres, and
> narrower tyres deserve a lighter rim.
>
> The UltraGatorskin 28 I tried was too narrow anyway.
>
> ~PB


Another mystery of bike stuff. 28c Top Touring onto a A719 is a great
combo for loaded touring. BUT 719 series rims are not 'too wide' for
28c and thinner tires.
 
On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:52:43 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:

>1. by definition, rims distort [ovalize] under load, /regardless/ of how
>many spokes support it. if it didn't, there would be no load. the
>extent of ovalization under load is a function of rim thickness, not
>spoke tension.


********. Just to take the obvious edge case, a rim without spokes will
ovalize one heck of a lot worse than one with spokes. THe first part of
your paragraph is self-evident, the second part is self-evidently false.

Jasper
 
Benjamin Lewis wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>
>
>>[email protected] wrote:
>>
>>>If it uses the same number of spokes, it will have close to the same
>>>radial stiffness as the next rim.

>>
>>you know, i could easily misinterpret that as meaning that you're
>>clinging to the misconception that stiffness is a function of spoke
>>tension

>
>
> ???
>


it's not. common misconception, granted, but it's not.
 
Jasper Janssen wrote:
> On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 19:52:43 -0700, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>>1. by definition, rims distort [ovalize] under load, /regardless/ of how
>>many spokes support it. if it didn't, there would be no load. the
>>extent of ovalization under load is a function of rim thickness, not
>>spoke tension.

>
>
> ********. Just to take the obvious edge case, a rim without spokes will
> ovalize one heck of a lot worse than one with spokes. THe first part of
> your paragraph is self-evident, the second part is self-evidently false.
>
> Jasper



calm down guy.

pedantically, a rim without spokes won't distort at all if it can't be
loaded. practically, think about it; spokes are in /tension/. the rim
is being deflected /in the direction the spokes are pulling/. stiffness
therefore is a function of the rim's ability to withstand both that
tension /and/ "ovalization".
 
Patrick Lamb wrote:
> On Sun, 25 Sep 2005 10:04:23 -0400, PatC <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I'm looking to have a set of touring wheels hand-built, but I need to do it
> >on a budget (I think about $350.) Dollars are relative though. If I can
> >get significantly lighter, more durable wheels, I would probably spend
> >more.

>
> After all the other good questions have been answered, let me question
> the underlying assumption here. Why do you want to buy a wheel set?
> Why not concentrate your money on buying a super-duper tough rear
> wheel, and simply making sure whatever you have on the front now is
> tensioned and stress-relieved?
>
> I ask because I'm a clydesdale and I've ridden through two rear
> wheels, but I'm still on the original front. If it would somehow just
> break, I could get rid of the red spoke wrench...
> as is.


The OP can correct, but I presume this is a new build. He has a Surly
LHT frame that he wants to build out for touring. Might as well get a
good set of matched wheels.

- rick
 
In article <[email protected]>, jim beam
<[email protected]> wrote:

> David wrote:
> > Jim,
> >
> >
> >>hmmmm, you do not cite which page, and you didn't bother to context the
> >>link to the 90% statement. it may have been clear to you, but not to
> >>me. and having quickly scanned the site, i /still/ don't see a 90%
> >>statement.
> >>

> >
> >
> > Read the part where the rim will ovalize under a 200lbs load with
> > loosely tightened spokes. Any stiff rim, including the A719 or the
> > T520, T519 will ovalize or go out of true when built poor or tensioned
> > incorrectly. Therefore, the stiffness of the rim has nothing to do
> > with the final stiffness of the wheel, hence the 90% figure. The 90%
> > figure is just what I think, but seemed to concur with another master
> > builder in town who he seemed to agree with me.

>
> ok, 3 things:
>
> 1. by definition, rims distort [ovalize] under load, /regardless/ of how
> many spokes support it. if it didn't, there would be no load. the
> extent of ovalization under load is a function of rim thickness, not
> spoke tension.


To make a wheel stronger, you could either have a wider rim width (look
at downhill wheelsets and A719) or increase the number of spokes --
tandems use 40 to 48 spokes..

> 3. the stiffness of the rim is fundamentally important to the stiffness
> of the wheel.
>


Yes to a certain point. You can make a stiff rim, but at what weight
cost. Stiffer rim means heavier rim. Or not so heavy rim, but more
spokes.. Despite what wheel makers try to instill upon us, spokes
don't really weight a lot more. 4 more or 8 more spokes is a lot of
weight sensible than lacing a pair with super stiff and heavy downhill
rims.

> to paraphrase; "er, i reckon it's 90% and my buddy reckons that's about
> right". just doesn't cut it david. sorry.
>


Then you would believe what the boutique wheelset people had made you
to believe. 16 spokes wheels are just as tough as 32 spoked wheels.

Great!! Now no wonder boutique wheels are such an easy sell!
 
TV? No, that's a bag full. Check your groceries and the camping
equipment-totals front/rear and piece by piece-
On a scale. I did. And the grocery weight was 85 pounds first off
And the camping went 45-55 rear/30 front. Depends what you load off
course. That sounds dumb but fall clothing, three days food-carry 3
gallons water? Are you traveling down the road or riding out to camp?
Big difference.

The boat grease is ok with me. I have it in the BB for a temp
rebuild/repack before replacing the BB. I tend to believe the castrol
marine doesn't flow under and around the bearings as well as the
designed for slow speeds and low temps cycle greases.
Its not hard to grip that IF castrol converted the marine bearing
grease to a slow speed low temp grease then the castrol would top the
cycle greases.
Are you implying the cycle grease people are yanking our chain?

The suggestion to go for the $$$ rear end is the choice to make. A good
shimano front hub with 25/grease/14's/cr-18 will carry the front bags
at what? Uh mmm $100?

Nashbar is selling double wall wheelsets for 27" et al but the hubs
are not shimano
oh yeah-get the long brass nipples, use linseed for nipple grease. buy
a small nicholson file, break it, and use a peice to file the long
nipples flat when you round one offfff&*((^@# in the usual ...
 
> I have a A719 to which I fitted a Continental Ultra Gatorskin 28. It didn't
> seat well and looked too narrow and "wrong".


How different is that from a 23mm tire on a 19mm rim, which is a
routine combination?

I used to run Continental Super Sport 700x28 tires on Mavic M261 rims
(26mm actual width). I wouldn't have toured with that setup-- I'd want
something fatter for comfort-- but it seemed to work just fine.

Chalo Colina
 
Pete Biggs <p@melonbiggs{remove fruit}.tc> wrote:

> The UltraGatorskin 28 I tried was too narrow anyway.


How was it too narrow? I have A319 rims on my cross bike, because I use
it with fat studded tyres in the winter, but in the summer I've used
25 mm Ultra GatorSkins on them without trouble. I believe A319 and A719
are exactly the same width.

-as
 
David <[email protected]> wrote:

> Ahhh... The Ksyrium wheel. Neither aerodynamic like the Zipp 404 or
> 909 and neither light compared to some of the custom hand built wheels.
> Easy sell. Hand built 32 spokes or even 28 -- harder sell, except
> maybe to a seasoned veteran who knows better.


The truly funny part is that the lighest Ksyrium wheels, which still
aren't particularly light, have fat aluminium spokes. They have an aero
shape but they are still fat. Reportedly, Ksyrium SL's are no more
aerodynamic than a traditional 32-spoked wheel which weighs the same or
less and costs much less. I believe the aerodynamics were tested by the
German magazine Tour.

Add to that boutique hubs which have a reputation of freewheel problems
and you have a truly bad deal. Somehow these are also some of the best
selling wheels on the market.

-as
 
jim beam wrote:

> Benjamin Lewis wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>
>>> [email protected] wrote:
>>>
>>>> If it uses the same number of spokes, it will have close to the same
>>>> radial stiffness as the next rim.
>>>
>>> you know, i could easily misinterpret that as meaning that you're
>>> clinging to the misconception that stiffness is a function of spoke
>>> tension

>> ???

>
> it's not. common misconception, granted, but it's not.


I just can't figure out any possible way of misinterpreting what Jobst
wrote above to mean that.

--
Benjamin Lewis

Now is the time for all good men to come to.
-- Walt Kelly
 

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